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  •  at least you've done some (22+ / 0-)

    I've only gotten as far as buying second hand pump jacks. I have to put on sheathing too. Some places only clapboards on studs. Wood was pricey back in the day.

    I'm going to help drag a carcass to the truck. I have my excuse  today.

    How big is your personal carbon footprint?

    by ban nock on Sat Jan 19, 2013 at 06:15:39 AM PST

    •  dragging carcasses and shoving them into bags (21+ / 0-)

      Boy does that take me back.
      Have fun!  Think I'll stay home and read a stroke book ;-0

      re: siding:
      I I'm taking the opportunity to add styrofoam insulation underneath, where I do this against uninsulated  Living space (this is a utility room behind this wall.  
      On the other side i'll be putting the insulation over the T&G siding like you see on the left, then the HArdiplank over that. Ive never done that before so I want to get it right. Thats should really improve the situation. currently there's no insulaton at all in the walls of my living room.
      no I'm not exaggerating, you never run out of Stupid up at the Lazy J

      Happy just to be alive

      by exlrrp on Sat Jan 19, 2013 at 06:26:41 AM PST

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      •  soooo, let me get this sequence right... (5+ / 0-)

        studs, (no vapor barier, and what about that anyway?)then old wooden 1x6 siding with it's insulating barrier of 6 coats of paint, then the 1' rigid foam board: no stringers, stringers yes/no ?,
        .... then the vapor barrier, or foam is the vapor barrier?, then the hardiboard.
        Then the insulating paint. a joke that was...

        Stringers yes or no, I think no, so do you transfer the stud locations thru all that to the hardiboards and fasten to the studs or are you just getting lucky with the fasteners thru into the siding, brittle as it may be, and do you refasten the siding beforehand where it/if it needs it? Hardiboard/plank looks good but I have to keep my siding, because.

          ok , now my little mess...

        My siding is 120 year old redwood...and a historic registered house,'s just  a little simple worker house but still...
            Long term, someday, heh, I am inclined to carefully remove the siding, send it thru a shop setup heat gun, linseed oil and  prime both sides, topcoat paint, and then back on the building. And paint again.
             But while the building is opened take advantage of the open studs by rewiring, adding firestops, and plywood the outside..and vapor barrier, or at least tarpaper?
          (interestingly an issue with Old House people that adding plywood may make the house  too rigid...but someone at some point has put in a perimeter concrete foundation on 3/4 of it, so the rigid/flexible issue is moot.)
             And I would do a section at a time, covering with the primed plywood in the meantime.
          Weather: It's 28 degrees here and breezy and wet at the worst, no snow or ice.
           (Refasten with maybe stainless fasteners this time, what did you use?)(It's damp here mostly, norcal near the coastal weather.

        I also have 40 or so rusty fasteners leaking down the outside, the steel flashing is rusting down from the windows, the paint is likely lead based so I don't particularly want to sand it, and it's on a semi public alley and 24' high at worst. And the window trim and end trims would have to be dealt with as well..a Big Project. And at the top there is a 36" panel of fancy woodwork that may be better the have stay in place...but 1/2" less inside the new siding face.

           Before I do all that, just on the weather side westwall, I will likely put the foam board on the inside of the two living spaces, covering up the existing graffitti and 60's textured drywall, (also 20% asbestos, so I don't have to make that airborne by removing it) the foam board on the inside of the western weather exposed side would be easy, and helpful, and lazy.
              And then the new drywall over the new foam board...the foam board solves several problems there besides adding the insulation to the framing heat loss where the heat loss would be biggest as well....without the awful drywall texture and damages it would be 50/50 whether it would be 'worth it'.

        1. insulates against heat loss thru the frameing and into the not sealed very well wall space.
        2. covers damaged and environmentally challenged asbestos , 20% by weight in older existing drywall. I have had enough asbestos in boat work for this life, thank you.
        3. solves both problems sooner rather than waiting for me to get to the outside siding Project, a big one not likely to ever happen. :<

        and no windows...well, one,  and in the other room only the floor 8" trim to move...but inside, inside! music! snax! naked cats! (trim gets adjusted because it is removed for this, and now the wall would be thicker by 1" so some recuts needed...and carpet is being removed so trim can go to the floor now..right?)  

        (we'll leave the floor refinish issue til later when I know what horrors lurk there.)

        anyway, I wonder about leaving the outside siding as is and 'just' ( a four letter word, sorry) paint it with minimum prep (heh, time consuming enough at that!)  and that would minimize and then stop the eroding lead paint dust as well as look better, I can plan the removal and stripping for later.

          The wall is insulated with the foil to the drywall side, no tarpaper that I have definitively seen under the siding....tho it may be there...

        I think my lazy way has some advantages, heh.

        All opinions happily listened too...

        This machine kills Fascists.

        by KenBee on Sat Jan 19, 2013 at 02:42:10 PM PST

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        •  Some tough problems there (2+ / 0-)
          Recommended by:
          KenBee, Unknown Quantity

          Any way to simply pull or behead the rusty fasteners on the outside?

          Tend to agree that, short of a gut renovation where you move out of the house, covering/encapsulting large areas of asbestos is a reasonable choice.  Just avoid putting a bunch of fasteners through it.

    •  Expensive wood (14+ / 0-)

      Our house (built 1949 in the center of lumber country) is the opposite.  The house has a brick veneer, and as near as I can tall, the whole thing has a layer of clear 3/4" tongue and groove cedar over the studs and under the brick.  The roof deck is built that way, too.  But that was back in the time when logging old growth was in full swing and they threw away wood with knots.  

      The human race has one really effective weapon, and that is laughter. -Mark Twain

      by boatgeek on Sat Jan 19, 2013 at 08:45:14 AM PST

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