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  •  cars used to be warmed up (2+ / 0-)
    Recommended by:
    bigjacbigjacbigjac, cocinero

    because they had carburetors. If you drive while the engine was cold, you risk the engine dieing and then it becomes real hard to restart.  Even with these cars, it was better to drive at lower speeds after starting to warm up the engine than to let it warm up at idle.

    With fuel injection, cars start right away.  No warmup is needed.

    Oil being too viscous is not a valid excuse.  Oil warms up with use of the engine.  

    "The only person sure of himself is the man who wishes to leave things as they are, and he dreams of an impossibility" -George M. Wrong.

    by statsone on Wed Feb 27, 2013 at 07:30:22 AM PST

    [ Parent ]

    •  You have to wait for the oil to warm up.... (1+ / 0-)
      Recommended by:
      JeffW

      ....before you drive the car.

      When the oil is cold, it doesn't circulate effectively throughout the engine; there is increased friction on the parts of the engine that aren't being oiled properly.

      Putting a much higher load on the engine, by driving the car, will greatly increase the friction on the poorly lubricated engine parts. This will cause the engine to wear out much faster than if you waited until the oil was warm enough to circulate properly.

      In the Fox News Christian Nation, public schools won't teach sex education and evolution; instead they'll have an NRA sponsored Shots for Tots: Gunz in Schoolz program.

      by xynz on Wed Feb 27, 2013 at 07:44:29 AM PST

      [ Parent ]

      •  See my comment below. nt (0+ / 0-)

        "Til you're so fucking crazy you can't follow their rules" John Lennon - Working Class Hero

        by Horace Boothroyd III on Wed Feb 27, 2013 at 07:47:23 AM PST

        [ Parent ]

      •  I also "warm" the engine before driving. (3+ / 0-)

        I am rather meticulous about car care, as they are quite expensive, and one of those methods of care is warming the engine before driving.

        In addition to providing maximum oil flow, the engine always runs smoother after a few minutes. There is a point where the cold running engine "relaxes" and smooths out - that's when I begin to drive it. I also use full synthetic oil for best engine performance over the life of the car. My engines run like new ones at 150K plus....might put 250K on the two cars I own currently. It's that LAST 125K miles of the life of the car where these habits pay off. Transmission - same thing - mine work like they did new.

        My driving habits more than make up the difference. I get great mileage out of my vehicles, exceeding any EPA estimates even on older engines. I also do all other scheduled maintenance - fluid swaps, tire pressure/proper rotation/alignment, air filters, etc.....

        It's more energy efficient to care for a vehicle and drive it longer than it is to buy new ones before I should have to. I also am as meticulous about buying them as I am about how I use and care for them - Toyotas and Hondas that have been built for many years (Corolla/Camry/Civic/Accord) tend to be my personal favorites as the engineering has been perfected over many years of building and learning - I have never had one fail to start in 20 years, and they give great service.

        And when I do part with these cars, they are very desired for parts, so they get recycled again. When a mechanic looking for an engine or tranny sees what I did to care for it, those component parts are worth a lot of money. I took my old Toyota pickup and sold it as a parts truck because it took a "hit and run" to the driver's side door area - not worth much on insurance but worth quite a bit to a skilled mechanic doing rebuilds. Once that mechanic heard that engine and knew how I cared for it, it was an easy sell. He ended up taking most of the parts out of that truck and put it into others - by the time he was done with it there wasn't much left but the frame. There are a number of "living" Toyotas around here with those donor parts. An older Toyota or Honda engine with full synthetic oil run it's whole life the way I do is worth quite a bit of money, which means they won't go to waste.

        Now if we can figure out how to get that reliability in something that doesn't use oil, then we are getting somewhere! But for now, that bit of extra fuel used at startup pays itself back over the long run, in longer life, overall mileage when driven, and even a potential donor engine later.

        "Because only three percent of you read books - and only fifteen percent of you read newspapers - but right now there is a whole and entire generation that didn't know anything that didn't come out of this tube." - Howard Beale

        by Audible Nectar on Wed Feb 27, 2013 at 08:42:51 AM PST

        [ Parent ]

      •  Not really. (0+ / 0-)

        As long as you have oil pressure, you're OK to go. If you don't have an OP gauge, 15-20 seconds is plenty to get pressure in a modern car.

    •  Back in the late seventies, (1+ / 0-)
      Recommended by:
      cocinero

      I had a 1968 ford pickup truck,
      and someone had installed a hand choke knob,
      right there on the dashboard.

      On a cold morning in Hays, Kansas,
      where I lived at the time,
      I would pull out the choke knob,
      all the way out,
      start the engine,
      rev it up for ten seconds,
      put it in gear,
      (it was a three speed standard)
      and nearly dump the clutch,
      and head down the road.

      No long warm-up at all.

      As I drove down the road,
      I gradually pushed the choke knob in,
      a little at a time.

      I wish car engines were operated by the driver,
      not totally automatic.

      I know what ignition timing is,
      I know what fuel/air mixture is.

      I got an 'A' in auto mechanic vo-tech school.

      Anyway.

      I agree,
      no idling really necessary,
      just choke it, if it's cold out.

      And cars choke automatically.

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