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View Diary: Daily Kos Oilpocolypse ROV #25: Cutting the Riser (299 comments)

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  •  Looking at the pics. Flange bolts! (5+ / 0-)

    Why do they have to CUT anything? It looks to me that right below the kink is the bottom flange of the riser pipe bolted to the BOP. Why don't they just unbolt the pipe and bolt one a valve? Put the valve on with it wide open, then once it is bolted securely with a good gasket, then close the valve and stop the flow.

    What am I missing here? Thanks.

    I want to move to the alternate universe where Gore was the President... anyone know the address?

    by zipn on Mon May 31, 2010 at 08:42:02 PM PDT

    •  CVutting the riser gets it out of the way. (4+ / 0-)

      You don't want to chance damaging the flange surface so you cut the pipe and then pull the flange apart.

      I would crate a piece that attaches to the flange and allows a quick connect for the LMRP.

      I'm no Nate Silver, TomTech, or VoteforAmerica ("WineRev" Eeman, Recounting Minnesota)

      by Tomtech on Mon May 31, 2010 at 08:50:55 PM PDT

      [ Parent ]

      •  I would think the flow (2+ / 0-)
        Recommended by:
        Tomtech, Onomastic

        would blow the pipe clear off once the bolts are loose.

        I want to move to the alternate universe where Gore was the President... anyone know the address?

        by zipn on Mon May 31, 2010 at 08:52:41 PM PDT

        [ Parent ]

        •  They will do a clean cut first. (2+ / 0-)
          Recommended by:
          Onomastic, Claudius Bombarnac

          They can't chance damaging the flange surface if the plan to use it.

          I'm no Nate Silver, TomTech, or VoteforAmerica ("WineRev" Eeman, Recounting Minnesota)

          by Tomtech on Mon May 31, 2010 at 09:04:20 PM PDT

          [ Parent ]

          •  I agree with your assessment (1+ / 0-)
            Recommended by:
            Tomtech

            about not damaging the flange.

            Using the hydraulic shears would do a faster job and would serve the same purpose if they were used right below the kink. I've seen these work on huge steel I-beams. They cut them like matchsticks.

            Maybe cutting the casing and drill string cleanly would show the path of the leak? Possibly the stub would assist in lining up the LMRP Cap?

            BTW, I understand that if the drill string is not pinched by the BOP rams, it may slip down the well once it is no longer hooked over the top of the BOP.

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