It’s holiday time and nothing showcases America’s diversity more than how we celebrate at this time of year—especially the food we eat. One’s culture, ethnicity and geographic location all play a role in what food is consumed during holiday gatherings. One food, in particular, has a unique place in American culinary traditions. And how and when this food is eaten and how its prepared often depends on what race you are. It’s one of the country’s best known comfort foods: macaroni and cheese.
First, let’s start by acknowledging that no culture is monolithic and that even among people who share the same cultural heritage, there can be great diversity. However, certain things can be and often are a very common experience. For many black Americans, homemade macaroni and cheese is a holiday staple. And its not just on the table for Thanksgiving but also for Christmas, family gatherings, barbecues, and Sunday dinners when the weather is cold.
It is not just a side dish—it is the dish.
There have been debates in black families for generations about who has the best recipe and whether or not it’s sacrilege to buy and use shredded cheese or whether it’s better to buy a big block of cheese and grate it yourself. This is a dish so sacred that not just anyone is allowed to make it. In fact, one of the first questions someone at a black family function is likely to ask before diving into the mac and cheese is “Who made it?” (Ditto for the potato salad, but that’s a separate post). If for some reason you are given the special task of making it, and it isn’t stellar, you risk receiving the scorn of your family—sometimes for years. You will probably never ever attend another family gathering again where someone doesn’t reference the one time you were allowed to make the mac and cheese. This is usually accompanied by fits of laughter. To avoid this embarrassment and in order to save face, many of us will spend years trying to perfect this dish—often from a recipe passed down to us from a grandmother or some other matriarchal figure in our families.
It is that serious.
In black culture, for the most part, macaroni & cheese is the pinnacle, the highest culinary accolade. Who makes it, how it’s made and who’s allowed to bring it to a gathering involves negotiation, tradition and tacit understanding. It’s made from scratch and usually involves multiple kinds of cheese, secret touches (eggs and evaporated milk may be involved) and debates over toppings. It’s baked, and it’s a side dish, but it’s the side dish of honor, present at every important occasion.
Just rip the top off a blue box? It would be like ripping through your grandmother’s heart.
So imagine our surprise when we learn that our white counterparts, in general, don’t revere and eat macaroni and cheese like we do.
It can literally leave you questioning everything you know about life. How on Earth is it possible that not everyone loves macaroni and cheese? Or at least doesn’t have it on their table during the holidays? Something so central to the experience of so many black Americans starting from childhood on is simply something that is not to a thing that white folks do. And the fact that so many people think that mac and cheese is that boxed version of it … well, that’s just shocking!
In white culture, for the most part, macaroni & cheese is certainly considered tasty – cheesy, comforting and filling. It’s also cheap, the kind of thing your mother pulled together on a weeknight to stretch the budget. You might make it from scratch for a filling meal, but it’s also so simple, any kid can make it: Tear open the box, boil the macaroni, dump in the powder, stir in the milk.
Macaroni & cheese on a holiday table would be as out of place as ripped blue jeans in church.
Talk about differences. This has even prompted discussions of whether or not mac and cheese is a “black thing” among high-profile political, cultural and religious leaders. Back in 2011, this happened:
Pat Robertson appeared confused about macaroni and cheese while hosting “The 700 Club” Wednesday on the Christian Broadcasting Network following a clip of host Kristi Watts interviewing former Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice. In the clip, Watts asked Rice what dish she had to have at Thanksgiving. “It’s mac and cheese,” Rice said.
Watts clapped. “Sister, that is my dish, that is the one thing I can rock,” she said.
“But only once, once a year,” said Rice.
Following the clip, Robertson asked, “What is this mac and cheese? Is that a black thing?”
“It is a black thing Pat. Listen: and you guys, other people, the world needs to get on board with macaroni and cheese,” said Watts. “Christmas and Thanksgiving — we have to have macaroni and cheese, and it trips me out that you don’t.”
Pat Robertson and his bizarre questions and theories aside (certainly a good number of Americans, regardless of race, have at least heard of macaroni and cheese), Kristi Watts was absolutely right. The world really does need to get on board with homemade macaroni and cheese.
If you are not, it’s not too late to make good choices this holiday season!
Here’s an easy recipe you may want to try.
What are some of your must-have holiday foods? And if you have a special mac and cheese recipe to share, feel free.