Welcome to another edition of Wine Regions, an ongoing exploration of the interesting world of wine.
This week we will focus on Chateauneuf Du Pape, the most famous appellation in the Southern Rhone River region of France
Read on for more on this historic and interesting wine region.
In the Early fourteenth century, Pope Clement V moved the Papacy to Avignon, France. The Avignon Popes were lovers of wine and promoted viticulture in the area. Just north of Avignon are the vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which means the new castle of the Pope. Many of the vineyards are within sight of the ruin of a Papal summer castle.
from wikipedia
The Rhone river valley is in Southern France and is usually seprated into two sub regions: The Northern Rhone with it's famous appellations Hermitage, Cote Rotie, Saint Joseph, and Condrieu; The Southern Rhone with Gigondas, Vacqueras, and of course Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
The Southern Rhone has a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and warm summers. This is moderated by the cool mistral wind, which blows in from the Massif Central. Chateauneuf-du-Pape covers 7400 acres and produces more than a million cases a year. The soil is clay in some parts and sandy in others, but the signature features of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are the galet roules, round stones formed and deposited by glaciers. In Adventures on the Wine Route Kermit Lynch discusses these roules:
One visitor from California revealed perhaps the difference between the American and French mentality when he asked, 'Why did they move all those stones into the vineyard?' The French cultivated this ridiculously stony site, this nearly impossible surface, because it gives a special character to the wine....A great Chateauneuf-du-Pape tastes almost as if it had been filtered through the stones, and indeed rainwater is filtered by this thick stone layer before it reaches the underlying soil which nourishes the plants. In addition, the stones account for Vieux Telegraphe's characteristic power and generosity because they reflect and collect heat, and it is believed that during the ripening season this store of warmth works throughout the night contributing to the grapes maturity.
galets and bushvine. from wikipedia
Chateauneuf-du-Pape makes red and white wine. Thirteen different grapes are allowed in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Picpoul, Terret Noir, Counoise, Muscardin, Vacaresse, Cinsault, Picardin, Clairette, Roussanne, and Bourboulenc. The red wine is dominated by three varietals, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. Here's Kermit Lynch again, tasting barrel samples:
We usually begin with a cuvee of 100% Grenache. The aroma is reminiscent of pit fruits, like cherry, plum, and apricot...The wine fills the mouth, but there is no center...The Syrah expresses itself in more vulgar terms in the southern soil and climate, where it seems more peppery and earthy, often leaden with rude tannins...Mourvedre dominates the next cuvee with its wilder (the French say sauvage, more vegetal aromas of garrique and herb...However, there is also a sapid, delicious fruitiness recalling black cherries picked right off the tree...
Combine these three elements (and sometimes combinations of the other 10 varietals) and what you get is a complex and interesting wine. From Wikipedia:
Châteauneuf-du-Pape red wines are often described as earthy with gamy flavors that have hints of tar and leather. The wines are considered tough and tannic in their youth but maintain their rich, spiciness as they age. The wines often exhibit aromas of dried herbs common in Provence under the name of garrigue.
Recently, some producers have started making wines in a style that is more jammy and less tannic, drinkable early. This is in part due to the influence of Robert Parker, who once famously declared Chateauneuf-du-Pape the best value in wine. This is, unfortunately, no longer true (and also attributable to Parker), with some chateau fetching prices on par with Bordeaux. There are still some bargains to be had, but bargain is a relative term when it comes to Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Expect to spend a minimum of $25.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape also make white wine, made primarily of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. The best of these are full bodied and floral, with notes of peach, pear, honeysuckle, and spice, with a nice flinty crispness. They are cheaper than the reds and sometimes age well, so don't be afraid of a white Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the bargain bin (but also, don't blame me if you get one that's over-the-hill).
If you want to try something approaching Chateauneuf-du-Pape but don't want to break the bank, you could try some of the lesser known regions of the Southern Rhone, such as Gigondas or Vacqueras, which make excellent wines. Also, wines marked Cotes Du Rhone are often quite pleasant and a great value. One I can recommend is Saint Cosme Cotes Du Rhone. Also, great wines are made using the Rhone varietals in Spain, Washington, South Africa and, especially, Australia.
One more note about Chateauneuf-du-Pape from Wikipedia:
The producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape have historically been known to be fiercely protective of their vineyard properties which is said to have led to the 1954 passing of a municipal decree in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that banned the overhead flying, landing or taking off of flying saucers in the commune. As of 2007, this law has yet to be repealed.