WARNING: This diary discusses the raising of rabbits for human consumption. If this topic disturbs you, please do not proceed.
Part 1: the argument for raising rabbits for meat.
Part 2: Shelter
In today's diary we are going to discuss food and nutrition for meat rabbits, as well as the importance of temperature management for rabbit health.
It's very easy and relatively inexpensive to feed a rabbit. Many brands of commercial pellets are available and you could conceivably feed your rabbit nothing but a good quality pellet and they'd be fine. But knowing what a good quality pellet is can be more confusing. Everyone's got a different opinion on how much protein or fiber or whether corn (as an ingredient) should be verboten and you can go crazy trying to figure it out yourself. But there are several benefits to feeding your rabbits pellets including consistent nutrient balance and the inclusion of mineral salt (so you don't need a separate salt lick). Most rabbit pellets also contain Copper Sulphate which help fight off intestinal parasites that can make your rabbit sick. Here are a few tips on selecting a good rabbit pellet:
1) Never ever buy pellets at a pet store. Not only are they only available in smaller size bags (10lbs or less in many cases), for the prices they charge you can get a 50lb bag at a feed store (which averages about $15/50lb bag). Plus many rabbit pellet brands found at pet stores contain brightly colored bits (I call them "fruit loops) that don't really add anything to the rabbit's diet and are more designed to attract human buyers.
2) Avoid corn as an ingredient. Few pellet brands have corn as an ingredient and none of them have very much. The corn itself poses no problem to rabbits, but there is a type of mold that is not uncommonly found in corn that is toxic to rabbits. Most places test their corn extensively before milling it, but do you really want to risk feeding your rabbits pellets contaminated with toxic mold? They don't need it, they don't miss it, and it's best to avoid it.
3) Know what rabbit pellets should look like. Commercial pellets are incredibly uniform in size and consistency. I've heard of a few instances of people raising rabbits and getting a bag that didn't quite look right, because the manufacturer mistakenly filled bags of rabbit pellets with chicken feed (which looks totally different). If you have been using the same feed for a while and something is different, call the manufacturer before you use it. Better safe than sorry.
4) Check the mill date on the bag. Rabbits don't like old feed and may get rather finicky if you try to feed it to them. Avoid feed with mill dates older than a couple months if you can help it.
5) Be consistent with your pellets. Don't go changing your brands on a whim or because one is on sale that month. If you do change be sure you have enough of the old feed to gradually change over to the new over a period of a week or two. Many rabbits don't take well to sudden feed changes and any changes can cause stomach upsets. In addition, any rabbit you buy from a breeder, or any rabbit you sell to someone should include a bag of their current food so you can make the change over responsibly. This is the standard practice for buying and selling rabbits and if a breeder refuses to include a bag of their pellets, go somewhere else.
The rest is simple protein/fiber percentages and no one can agree what is best. But if you're breeding rabbits, a 16% protein pellet is going to do you just fine.
The next question is, how much do I feed rabbits? It really depends on your rabbit and the conditions you keep them in as they need more food in cold weather and less in hot. It's also good to get in the habit of petting your rabbits daily so you can feel how lean or how meaty they are. You literally need to get a feel for what a healthy rabbit feels like. With full grown Bucks or does you aren't currently breeding, you want to limit how much you feed them. As unhealthy as obesity is in humans, it's many times worse for rabbits and can, among other things, reduce their fertility. For a meat sized breed, in temperate conditions, about 1/2 cup a day is all you'll need. For pregnant or nursing does, and any growing babies (called kits) you should feed them as much as they want. And believe me, growing kits eat a LOT. This is where the controversy over protein comes into play because more protein usually equals rabbits that grow larger, faster but adults generally don't need the extra.
You don't have to feed your rabbits JUST pellets. Many additions and treats can benefit rabbits enormously. Here are a few common ones:
1) Grass hay: In addition to being used by a doe to make her nest when she gives birth, grass hay is great to feed your rabbits daily. It's high in fiber which aides in digestion. But you want to avoid feeding your rabbits straight alfalfa hay. Alfalfa is not a grass, it's a legume and often fed to horses, goats, cows and other ruminants to add protein to their diet. Plant protein is good for rabbits, but alfalfa also contains a comparatively high amount of calcium. High calcium levels can cause urine of a "sludge" constancy and eventually kidney stones which is not fun for a rabbit. Timothy grass is great, but brome and orchard and any other horse quality hay is good. A grass/alfalfa blend is also fine, but I wouldn't go more than 40% alfalfa. Oat grass is also fantastic and can be found at feed supply stores that cater to horse owners.
2) Oats and/or barley: These are great for growing kits as they're easily digested for the newly weaned. Some people will keep a separate dish of oats in a cage with young (2+ weeks old) kits. It's best to use uncut, unrolled oats or barley.
3) Black Oil Sunflower Seeds (or BOSS). These are common in the bird feed section and really do a wonder on rabbit coats. If you want to show your rabbits, giving them a tsp. of BOSS a day is a great idea.
4) Alfalfa or hay cubes: these are compressed cubes of alfalfa or hay that also have molasses and are squished into hard cubes. Great for chewing and wearing down rabbit teeth (that grow constantly). Small bags can be found in rabbit sections of feed stores but if you want a better value, look for larger bags in the horse section (as they're also common horse treats).
5) Calf Manna: This is in a class on its own. Calf manna is a brand of supplement designed to promote milk production in many different species of animals. A couple tsp. of Calf Manna a day for pregnant or nursing does can be a great way to make sure she's making enough milk for her kits (meat breeds generally have very large litters) and make sure she maintains good body condition throughout pregnancy and nursing so you can breed her back sooner.
6) Dried or fresh fruit (apples, bananas, pineapples, mango, papaya, oranges). This is good as a treat, but shouldn't be fed in any significant quantity. It's like candy for rabbits. That being said, feeding pineapple can help treat a condition commonly known as "fur lock" or "molt lock" which happens when a rabbit ends up consuming too much of its own fur and causes a block in their digestion. Weekly grooming can prevent this, but if it does happen now you know what to do. Papaya is also used to reduce the odor of rabbit urine, if you find that's a problem with your rabbit.
7) Fresh vegetables and herbs: Contrary to common belief, you should never feed a rabbit a lot of lettuce, especially dark green leafy lettuce for the same reason they shouldn't get straight alfalfa. This also applies to broccoli and cauliflower due to high calcium content. And you should NEVER feed fresh greens to a baby rabbit (3 months or younger) because their digestion just can't handle it. That being said, occasional vegetables and vegetable cast offs can be fed to rabbits. Avoid tomatoes and starchy vegetables like potatoes, peas, corn.
8) WEEDS and lawn trimmings and bush trimmings: rabbits love dandelions so much that you might find yourself coming to like them in your yard because at least now they have a purpose. And as long as your lawn is not chemically treated, they like fresh grass cuttings too. A lot of people will create a little "play pen" of wire fencing in their yards to let rabbits roam around and forage (while their owner cleans cages for example). This is fine. But not all weeds should be fed to rabbits and if you have any questions you should sign up for a rabbit message board (there are several on yahoo, and one specifically devoted to meat rabbits) and ask.
Another important aspect of rabbit keeping is temperature control. Rabbits tolerate the cold very well, and that's one of the reasons they make such good backyard animals, but they do not tolerate heat well at all. Heatstroke is deadly and can kill a rabbit in a matter of a couple hours and once the process starts, it's very hard to reverse. You can still keep rabbits in hotter climates, but some additional precautions and care are required. it's important to mind the weather because when the temperatures climb above 80, especially in humid climates, that's when it's time to start cooling things down. Here is a list of ways to keep your outdoor rabbits cool (by increasing order of effectiveness):
1) Fans: This is the mildest and easiest cooling method. You can increase the cooling power by getting a misting fan.
2) Ice: Rabbits won't drink really warm water and when it's hot, they need water more than ever. Putting ice cubes in their water on hot days can encourage them to drink more and help keep them cool and hydrated. Also, putting bottles of frozen water in their cages, can give them something cold to lie against. Rabbits can also be fed frozen ice cubes made from diluted fruit juice or even frozen fruit on hot days. Yum!
3) Drenching in cold water: This is generally reserved for really hot days. You can take a cold, wet washcloth and bathe your rabbit’s ears to vent off excess heat. You can also set up a kiddie pool with cold water for rabbits to swim or get bathed in. Many breeds of rabbits LOVE water and will happily float in a pool with their legs splayed out. If you do fully drench your rabbit, make sure the water is reaching the skin (rabbit fur can be difficult to penetrate with water which is why they float so well with so little body fat) and take extra care if you are in a very humid climate. Wet rabbit fur is just as insulating if not MORE so than dry rabbit fur. If you live in a humid environment, make sure to thoroughly dry your rabbit before putting them away as wet fur can lock in body heat so completely, it can accelerate heatstroke.
Also keep in mind that there are limits to the cold rabbits can tolerate, especially if you're breeding. Any situations with rabbits about to give birth, or recently given birth below 40 degrees should have some kind of heat lamp or heating pad under the nesting box. (but we'll talk more about that in the breeding diary). If your rabbits are in a shed, a small space heater or even an incandescent light bulb can help keep the space warm in sub-freezing temperatures. Also make sure you give your rabbits more food on cold days.
Alright! Next diary will cover different breeds of meat rabbits and selecting the ones right for you.