In spite of devastation wrought by Hurricanes Irma and Maria, the lack of coverage in our media, and the neglect and indifference shown to our citizens on the U.S. Virgin Islands by Donald Trump and a Republican-controlled Congress, the people’s spirit is unbroken. The annual holiday celebration known as the Crucian Christmas Festival will take place this year, just as it has for decades:
Started in 1954, this festival is celebrated from December through New Year's. Delicious culinary treats are yours to enjoy as carnival participants are adorned in an endless variety of madras colors and patterns. The festivities are spread throughout "Twin City," so be sure to visit both Christiansted and Frederiksted.
This was confirmed by Gov. Kenneth Mapp back in November. There will be parades, music, and food fests. And Moko Jumbies will be towering over all of it on stilts, from heights ranging between 12 and 15 feet.
The Moko Jumbie is a cultural icon:
The Dutch, English, French, Spanish, Danish, British, and American flags have all flown over St. Croix with each country leaving its own impression on our society and cultural. As it turns out the most influential culture on St. Croix was not the Dutch, the French, or the Americans, but the Africans. Presently, the African culture is widely seen in how we behave, the foods we eat, and how we prepare them, and most of all, in our celebrations and traditions.
When Africans were brought to the Caribbean and sold to St. Croix planters as labor, they also brought with them seeds, oral lessons, and traditions, and of course their religious and cultural beliefs. Since many of the African cultural practices were forbidden while they were enslaved, the African people often had to disguise their practices in a festive context. Which may explain why the traditional plain “potato sack” costumes of the Moko Jumbie evolved into a colorful one.
Moko Jumbies have been in the Virgin Island’s cultural heritage for over 200 years and can be traced to Africa as far back as the 13th and 14th centuries. The presence of the Mocko Jumbie at our carnivals, parades, jump-ups, and even at a beach BBQ is a blessing and an honor. They are viewed as symbols of our history, culture, and heritage. At celebrations, such as carnival, a wedding, or even jump up, men, women and children perched high up on stilts are dressed in bright colors and masks. In this costume they are no longer men, women, and children – they have now transformed into Moko Jumbies.
I have been fascinated by Moko Jumbies since I first saw the stilt walkers on the island of St. Croix at a “jump up.” Though no longer available on YouTube, the film Mokolution explores the history and evolution of Moko Jumbies in the Virgin Islands
Mokolution: The Evolution of the Moko Jumbie, an hour-long documentary about mocko jumbies (or moko jumbies) in the U.S. Virgin Islands. The film was financed by the U.S.V.I. Department of Tourism and produced by Willard John, culture bearer and founder of the Guardians of Culture Mocko Jumbies performance troupe on St. Croix. It is a recording of a live performance and historical presentation held at Fort Frederik in Frederiksted, St. Croix in July 2008.
Mocko jumbies have their origin in Africa where masked and costumed stilt-walkers fulfilled a spiritual role among tribes in the Gambia, Senegal, Ghana, Nigeria and other countries, says John, whose succinct presentation of the history of the art form forms the backbone of the film. Stilt-walkers were known by different names in Africa and their spiritual function also varied: they represented the powers of the gods; they were able to communicate with the ancestors and they played a role in coming of age ceremonies.
In more modern times, between 1870 and 1950, mocko jumbies traditionally appeared wearing women’s dresses, colourful bloomers, masks and conical hats. John introduces us to two early practitioners of the art form, a Barbadian named Fritz Sealey better known as Marshall who played mocko jumbie on St. Croix from the 1920s to the 1940s, and John Farrell, better known as Magnus, a St. Croix native who was a mocko jumbie all his life, practicing the art form first in St. Croix, then in St. Thomas where he moved in 1939, and finally in New York where he lived from the 1960s onward.
During this era, there was a slightly menacing character to the mocko jumbies’ performances. The jumbies were costumed, fully masked and towered overhead. And mocko jumbie was a “clandestine craft”, says John: they didn’t rehearse in public and it was not clear one became a mocko jumbie. Children, upon seeing a mocko jumbie approaching, would run home to hide.
In 2009, the U.S. Virgin Islands Department of Tourism adopted the Moko Jumbie as its logo.
In spite of what folks are facing on the islands, residents and returning tourists alike will take time out from troubles and celebrate life. The people of the USVI will not be daunted by the lack of attention paid by their absentee landlord government on the mainland, headed by Donald Trump and a Republican cabal.
Before continuing with Christmas celebrations and Jumbies, let’s digress and review Donald Trump’s entire body of “interest” in the post-hurricane plight of the USVI. (It won’t take much time.)
The most media attention paid to his numbing disinterest was the result of his “mis-speaking.”
"I will tell you I left Texas and I left Florida and I left Louisiana and I went to Puerto Rico and I met with the President of the Virgin Islands," he told the audience of the Values Voter Summit in Washington.
"We are one nation and we all hurt together, we hope together and we heal together," he said, later adding, "The Virgin Islands and the President of the Virgin Islands, these are people that are incredible people, they suffered gravely and we're be there, we're going to be there, we have really, it is not even a question of a choice." [emphasis added]
These are people that are incredible people. They’ve suffered gravely, and we’ll be there. We’re going to be there. We have, really — it’s not even a question of a choice. We don’t even want a choice. We’re going to be there as Americans, and we love those people and what they’ve gone through. And they’re all healing, and their states and territories are healing, and they’re healing rapidly.
In the wake of the terrible tragedies of the past several weeks, the American people have responded with goodness and generosity, and bravery. You’ve seen it. The heroism of everyday citizens reminds us that the true strength of our nation is found in the hearts and souls of our people.
The only good thing about his error was that the media were motivated to actually mention the USVI. The bullshit out of his mouth about the“rapid healing” he was touting wasn’t called out. Keep in mind that on Oct. 20, St John still had zero power. The situation wasn’t getting a heck of a lot better by November.
From Great Expectations:
Nov 13 update: St John, St Thomas, and St Croix were all featured this morning on ABC's Good Morning America's program. Over the weekend Robin Roberts flew to the USVI to see for herself how the territory is faring as the result of being battered by not one but by two Category 5 hurricanes this past September. While she found many (most) still without electricity and many with homes that had been destroyed or badly damaged, she found the people of the islands resilient and committed to the rebuilding of their homes and infrastructure and our island spirit in good health. Thanks to the generosity of literally thousands of good hearted Americans donating funds, goods, and services to those in need the rebuilding process is coming along. One of the programs Robin highlighted is the Adopt-a-Family
St. Thomas resident describes the difficulty people in the U.S. Virgin Islands face in the aftermath of hurricanes. "We’re alive…and that’s a blessing."
While Trump dedicated a series of nasty tweets at San Juan Mayor Carmen Cruz, he has not attacked USVI Gov. Kenneth Mapp, when he finds the time to mention him. That may have to do with the fact that he ran as an independent (Mapp is a registered Republican) and has employed the “hat in hand, go beg at the big house” strategy in dealings with Trump. Frankly, neither conciliatory or adversarial responses have done anything to push those responsible for the welfare of island citizens to do anything to speed up the recovery process, which drags on and on.
Here is the sum total of Trump tweets mentioning the USVI:
So that’s it.
Meanwhile, there is no clear answer about when USVI residents can expect full power restoration, though the Virgin Islands Water and Power Authority (WAPA) has issued updates:
And I just saw this:
From the article:
The Government of the Virgin Islands, under financial pressure even before Hurricanes Irma and Maria, has found itself in a worse position following the storms, forcing the government to agree to a federal community disaster loan that not only breaks the government’s covenant with its current bondholders, but weakens an already frail position in the bond market.
Compounding the matter is a 2018 budget deficit projected to be around $250 million. How the gap will be bridged remains to be seen. But the government’s inability to pay National Guard soldiers well over three months after the storms, may serve as a precursor of the difficult days ahead for the territory.
In spite of all the above, Virgin Islanders will be be in full holiday swing, drinking guavaberry rum and eating sweet bread.
There was a reader comment posted under one of the articles about the Christmas festivities that expressed outrage that these island storm victims were planning to party and have a good time. Apparently folks are supposed to sit around in sackcloth and ashes bewailing their fate and waiting for rescue from above—or perhaps from the mainland.
Ain’t gonna happen.
People who historically survived enslavement were honed to resilience by those trials. They have learned how to survive with grace, and how to make the most of times of joy during the ensuing centuries.
The Washington Post has documented holiday clean-up efforts, and islanders are encouraging tourists to return:
For all the progress Virgin Islanders have made much work remains to be done, and travelers interested in a deeper, more local experience might incorporate volunteering into a vacation (“voluntourism,” as it’s called).
“We need outside tourism dollars,” said Jenny Hawkes, executive director of the local non-profit My Brother’s Workshop. “With voluntourism, you still have people coming to enjoy the culture, the views, and the beaches, but at the same time they are helping to remove debris, putting roofs up, helping locals clean up their homes and beaches.”
While organizations like My Brother’s Workshop and sailorshelping.org are ready and waiting to connect visitors with volunteer opportunities, there’s still time for beaches and drinks. The rum distilleries in the USVI are back up and running, and you’re likely to find live reggae at different spots any given night of the week. The bar scene is hopping, albeit with more partying linemen and relief workers at the moment than run-of-the-mill tourists. Some bars, like Tap & Still, hardly skipped a beat after the storms, opening up as soon as possible to serve meals to a community in need.
In August of this year, just before the hurricanes, the USVI Department of Tourism debuted a new advertising campaign, called “Real Nice.”
The refreshing new phase of the campaign, which involved creating print, television and digital assets, focuses on authentic Virgin Islands experiences, highlighting food, culture and people, along with the natural beauty of the destination. The voice-over talent of Virgin Islands artist Pressure Busspipe is featured in the television anthems, while his music can be heard in some of the digital videos, which will be shared online.
“To a Virgin Islander, ‘real nice’ is more than a phrase; it’s a feeling of positivity that speaks to the way we live and embrace each other as a people,” said Beverly Nicholson-Doty, D.OT. commissioner. “These advertisements dive deeper into showcasing the authenticity of our destination.”
You can view the ads on their YouTube channel, and since the hurricane they have added a few more, called “Still Nice.”
This ad gives a glimpse of the Moko Jumbies.
Before readers from or familiar with Trinidad point out that Moko Jumbies are part of Trinidadian tradition as well: it’s true, and you can view some of photographer Stefan Falkes’ breathtaking photographs of them at his website.
However, you don’t have to go to the Caribbean islands to see Jumbies. If you are in the New York metropolitan area you can head to Brooklyn, home of the Brooklyn Jumbies.
Brooklyn Jumbies Inc. is comprised of young men and women, who are striving to reach, uplift, educate and provide a positive direction for the youth of today and the future. Brooklyn Jumbies Inc. performs stilt dancing which is one of the numerous cultural elements of the African and Caribbean Diaspora. The founding members of Brooklyn Jumbies Inc. are Ali Sylvester and Najja Codrington. They are well aware that “a people without a culture is like a tree without roots.” Our culture has been systematically taken away from us.
Brooklyn Jumbies Inc. has made it one of their goals to help revive knowledge, respect and pride in our traditions. The organization firmly believes that planting these seeds in the minds, hearts and spirit of the youth and the public is one of the keys to empowerment and self-determination for our people.
The traditional function of the Moko Jumbie stilt dancers (portrayed by the Brooklyn Jumbies) is to serve and protect their communities. In Western Africa, Moko Jumbie is a spirit who watches over a village, and due to it’s towering height, is able to foresee danger and evil. The Moko Jumbie is traditionally called in to cleanse and ward off evil spirits that have brought with them disease and misfortune to a village. On the other side of the Atlantic, in Oaxaca, Mexico, the Zancudos (stilt dancers) perform annually to call upon the power of their saints to receive protection, blessings, and miracles. Music and character design was inspired by the Danza de los Diablos (portrayed by Jarana Beat) and used to address the use (and misuse) of the color blue. In the African-Mexican coast of Guerrero, the danza de los diablos is performed to remember all African descendants and to claim their place in society. It is a dance of resistance and rebellion against discrimination, exclusion, and segregation.The Rolling Calf (portrayed by Chris Walker) is a mythical character represented in Jamaican duppy ‘tory (ghost stories). There are many origin narratives including the untimely death of a runaway slave boy whose restless spirit now roams. Chris Walker’s portrayal presents the mythical as purposeful., He reimagines what is possible for a black body attempting to find liberation and to create a better space in this moment and in this land. It is a way to make and claim space, empowered by the collective and shared moment of the Intervention.
My Christmas Eve fantasy wish is that Moko Jumbies would show up in Washington D.C., head into the halls of Congress, and cleanse the place of the evil being perpetrated on this nation.
Wouldn’t that be something?
You can support the people of the USVI via The Community Foundation of the Virgin Islands, and Tim Duncan’s 21 US Virgin Island Relief Fund.