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Mississippi is a study in contrasts. Mansions sit near shacks of citizens living in abject poverty. On a more positive note is what the state does have:
A compelling history of music and literary genius. I will cover some of the literary giants of the Magnolia State in a future story. This one is about the music.
The home of Mississippi blues music can be found strung out along US Highway 61, which runs north and south through the flat delta country. The highway connects Memphis to New Orleans. Interstate 55 now parallels US Highway 61, the sterility of that concrete Interstate ribbon in stark contrast to the rich culture of Highway 61.
Ground zero for the blues tradition can be found at the famous crossroads near Clarksdale, where Robert Johnson is said to have sold his soul to the devil for mastery of the guitar. It is the intersection of US 61 and US 49.
A young Robert Johnson was not very good with his guitar. As the story goes, he disappeared for a time. When he reappeared some time later, he proved to be a master of the blues guitar. When asked where he learned to play like that, he told his audience he had exchanged his eternal soul for an uncommon skill as a musician. He told them he met Ol’ Scratch at the crossroads where the transaction took place.
Historians and geographers dispute that it was at this legendary crossroads that Robert Johnson referred to, but another more rural crossroads outside Clarksdale.
There is a blues trail that runs through Clarksdale. This videographer makes a few stops at some of the more memorable places. Actor Morgan Freeman lives at Clarksdale, and is often seen at the Ground Zero Club. Not surprising, because he owns the place.
Muddy Waters is one of my favorite blues musicians.
We can’t have a story about Mississippi delta blues without a H/T to the immortal B.B. King and his guitar named Lucille. My daughter Mary Beth was a classmate with one of his daughters at Ole Miss. She loved him and his music, often getting to sit on one side of the stage when he came to Ole Miss to give concerts.
Wednesday Lagniappe:
Did Highway 61 spawn any women blues musicians? Glad you asked.
Yes indeed. One of the best was the late Denise Lasalle, who died in 2018 at the age of 83.
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