Costa Rica is impossible to adequately describe in less than 20,000 words. Even a thousand photos won’t do it.
My long-time friend, Judy, and I spent time in Costa Rica in February, trying to accomplish a daunting task: find places to rent long term in a small(er) town area, preferably higher in the mountains (cooler with a breeze) and away from the beach (noisy, packed with people and traffic). Our schedule was crammed with locations to check out by ourselves and one day with a realtor. We found two locations while we crisscrossed the country by bus, shuttle, taxi, foot, and airplane. It was great fun and a giant learning experience, just a bit exhausting for two women who are closer to 80 than 70. J arrived 10 days before I did and she stayed another 8 days after I left. I was exhausted when I got home to my ‘velcro cat.’ J and I didn’t talk for two weeks...never thought that would happen.
Knowing what was ahead, we began with a relaxing two days in Manuel Antonio before we headed out to a permaculture farm in Londres so I could learn how to grow vanilla bean orchids. (That will be a future separate diary in May). We stayed at Hotel Planeta Sano, a place to relax, breathe the air, swim, eat fresh fish/veggies and take yoga classes. The place was originally called Hotel California. It has been completely remodeled into a beautiful spa with 29 rooms. Our exercise consisted of climbing at least three flights of stairs, up or down multiple times per day since there were no rooms on the first or second floors and there was no elevator. The open-air “office” was on the second floor patio. The restaurant was at the pool. We countered the caloric burn by indulging in dessert.
Yoga classroom, Hotel Planeta Sano
Another beautifully carved/painted wood wall plaque. Hummingbirds, orchids (Costa Rica’s national flower) and a bird I can’t identify.
White peacock butterfly on sulphur cosmos just being happy in the parking lot!
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We headed to our next destination, a permaculture farm that focuses on regenerative agriculture, in Londres. It is affiliated with the hotel/spa. The farm grows fruits and vegetables of every kind. And coffee beans and vanilla bean orchids. Daily breakfast was a delightful mix of freshly picked fruit (watermelon, musk melon, papaya, pineapple), scrambled egg, gallo pinto (rice and beans) and, of course, famous Costa Rican coffee.
Primary destination: the vanilla bean vines. We met my teacher, a young man, who has been growing and hand pollinating vanilla bean orchids since he was 14 years old. He has a degree in botany.
I listened intently to both his Spanish and English-Latin (botanist-ese), asked questions in both languages and was mesmerized by the hand pollination method. It involved a steady hand, a long thorn and one thumb. This pollination method is the only way to get the vanilla bean orchid to grow beans. The Melipona bee is the only natural pollinator that only lives in Mexico. Learned just as much about growing the vines as I did about the pollination/harvesting/drying of the beans.
Typical row of vanilla bean orchid vines
Vanilla bean orchid vine
Vanilla bean orchid vines
Vanilla bean orchid; blooms only 1 day/year and only for a few hours; must be pollinated as soon after opening as possible
Vanilla bean orchid! Unassuming, plain and a rarity. Will only grow and produce beans within a 20o band of the equator. Note the other ready to bloom orchid buds.
Vanilla bean orchid vine; master vanilla bean grower (Eitel) and mahdalgal (camera crew shadows). This private session was photographed for advertising purposes; posted on social media.
Green vanilla beans — not yet ready to be harvested; takes about 9 months to achieve full growth, another 3-4 months to dry (cure). A whole diary about growing vanilla beans in May.
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Flowers growing around our ‘cabin.’
Silver cock’s comb (Celosia argentea)
More silver cock’s comb. IMO, Mother Nature is the world’s greatest abstract artist.
Mother-in-law’s tongue (snake plant) Dracena trifasciata
Mother-in-law’s tongue with bloom stalk
2 bedroom guest house (with separate bedroom verandas), kitchen and living room in Londres
After this glorious experience, we boarded a bus and went for a short stay in Dominical, a surfer/youth oriented town with a rocky beach. It was very hot at the beach, even in the very early morning. We indulged in fresh fruit from the vendor across the street from our “senior/handicapped designed” room. Really great shower!!!
We waited about 90 minutes for the bus to Platanillo to check out its climate. Bus was packed with people of all sizes; all seats were occupied. We stood for the long ride. Thanks was offered for the open windows.
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Our next out of the way destination in the mountains was Platanillo. We “glamped” with a happy Canadian family (former Quebec circus physical arts trainers). Killer walk up/downhill gravel road to the super-mini for groceries. J’s an extremely good ‘wing-it’ kind of cook. The super-mini offered her a wide selection of possibilities from sauce envelopes and paper boxes. We had delicious, if never-to-be-repeated, pasta that night.
Super-mini: like a 7-11 only smaller, 1 or 2 refrigerators, goods packed floor to ceiling/wall to wall/fruit and veggies outside.
The few days here were laid back. Both of us spent one afternoon slapping some of J’s watercolors on paper. It’s been far too long since we painted together. Our work is as diametrically opposed as any two things can be. J is very precise; I’m not. She works in “a series” or a theme mode; I just let ‘er rip. Pastels are not my favorite and watercolors sometime feel “vague” to me. The cock’s comb was probably the subconscious inspiration for this piece. I’ll set it aside and return to it later for reconsideration. It’s an expression of emotion.
watercolor 2/18/2024
The view from my vintage camper bed.
Sleeping in a vintage camper was wild, in the best sense that we were basically sleeping with mosquito netting in the jungle. The first before-dawn morning I was awakened by what I thought was drumming. It was the beginning of the best rock concert ever by some strange combination of birds!
It started with a sort of muffled snare drum sound that set the beat. Then variable bass/alto/soprano bird harmonized vocalizations synched on the half and quarter notes. It was pretty amazing; lasted about 3+ minutes. And, no, I didn’t imbibe in any alcohol or other mind-altering substances. J slept through the whole thing. Thought about recording it on my phone which was not on the bed. Then considered the danger of climbing out of a raised bed in the pitch dark from the foldout part over the cab. So I’m the only one who heard it.
Travels with Judy. I’m certifiable.
That morning we got a ride up the hill to the bus stop where we waited for another 90 minutes to catch the bus to San Isidro (big city). At least we had seats. Bus arrived on time (which actually means late). We had lunch at the “soda” nearby.
Sodas are what Costa Ricans call their local Costa Rican restaurant. Costa Rica sodas are normally small, mom and pop open air restaurants that serve only traditional Costa Rican food. It's the best place to experience eating out like a local!
After lunch Judy brushed off an unlicensed cab driver in a group of about five men who wanted a fare. (I think she swore in Spanish…). Costa Rican unlicensed cabs are notorious for bilking tourists and old ladies like us. Just a hair short of a real argument, J asked the soda owner to call a “red” cab (licensed). It showed up within 3 minutes. Off we went in traffic to a place of respite in Rivas, about 6 km from San Isidro.
Sitio petroglifo Roman
Rancho la Botija
Absolutely gorgeous location with guest accommodations. It’s a working coffee farm and an actual archeological gem. When owners were building the place, they unearthed an ancient native people’s settlement. The unmarked grave sites were in front of reception, covered in neatly trimmed grass. We apologized if we stepped carelessly and headed to our guest house. Once settled, we wandered around the very large property through perfectly groomed gardens and spotted a marvelous pool. Dotting the gardens were small areas with ancient artifacts. Spent the day reading, photographing and taking it all in.
The day before we were to leave, the owner reached out to J and told her there were houses for rent on a nearby property. The ranch hostess offered to drive us to the location. We checked them out; they were much closer to what we were looking for. Owner wanted them rented as quickly as possible, so that left us out of the game for the time being. We also passed on looking at fully furnished converted shipping container rentals.
The ‘mill’ probably used to press sugar cane
Sign indicating where grave sites and earthenware pitchers were found
Swimming pool with an “earthenware pitcher” recycling waterfall; a nod to history.
Earthen pitcher detail
An artifact: Mortar and pestle (wood)
orchids
orchid
Omnipresent bougainvillea
ixora everywhere
Many more photos; it would take another few days to upload them all. Let’s just say, it was magnificent!
We met the realtor for one day (after discussing for 4 weeks prior), that we only wanted to rent. She showed us two newly built very modern for rent US-style apartments without gardens. While they were quite pleasant, if small and 2 floors, they were NOT what we were looking for.
Realtor then took us to a perfect house near Santa Elena PZ. We loved the size, location, gardens, workshop, verandas etc. But it was only for sale. Scratch that off the list.
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Our next adventure was another cab ride away to San Pedro PZ. It was billed as a ‘rustic cabin’ and it lived up to its description! Typical tico house. First floor sitting room, dining, kitchen and bathroom; second floor with 2 bedrooms, a small dedicated workspace and a very large covered balcony with a hammock. Typical suicide shower wiring in bathroom and no air conditioning, otherwise quite livable. This is the location where we spotted a two-toed sloth! And, of course, the requisite bougainvillea bush in front, and Crown of Thorns growing next to the front porch:
Bougainvillea
Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii)
One mid afternoon I just happened to glance from the porch to the front yard and saw movement in the undergrowth. I was dumbstruck to see a sloth! Grabbed my phone, yelled at Judy to stop what she was doing and get out front with her phone. I slowly/carefully crept through the grass to the front of the yard to get a better look.
Sloths are very solitary, shy, slow-moving creatures who do not like people. Most people have only seen a sloth in a nature preserve, a zoo or on film. It is more than rare to see a sloth in nature — it’s a one in a million event. Even the owner of the cabin had no idea there was a sloth on her property!They seemingly disappear very quickly into the undergrowth of branches, vines, leaves, and can get ‘lost’ to the photographer within seconds.
I positioned myself to get the best pictures without alarming the sloth, stood absolutely still and began photographing. I realized I was holding my breath.
Can you find the sloth?
Maybe now?
There’s the sloth!
Hello there. I’m upside down...
I combed my hair just for you and I’m smiling!
These few photos are a tiny selection from a much larger sequence of about 125 shots. I also have a video of the sloth climbing a tree and can’t figure out how to upload to DK.
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After the excitement of the sloth discovery, we took a little side trip for several hours to this really crazy place called Topolandia which was only a mile or so away. The site displays a father’s passion to carve an entire living space underground! He and his wife painted everything. https://www.topolandiacostarica.com/ Check out the website. It’s indescribable.
During the final section of the tour, we were escorted through the magnificent gardens. Found this particular tropical flower to be stunning and quite different:
Heliconia/Strelitzia/Bird of Paradise; most unusual black ‘feathers’ (not just shade)
Firebird carving/painting on Topolandia cave door
Jungle garden path
My adventure goals were reached on this trip!
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Our final destination was the Rio Claro area, down in the Osa — the wild country. One of J’s long-time friends lives there. We spent our last four days relaxing and enjoying freshly caught Pacific tuna being grilled to perfection along with garden grown veggies. And coffee until I had the jitters. We toured some of the nearby mountainside, enjoyed magnificent vistas, siesta-ed and were ready to socialize in the late evenings. Rained a few times. Some photos of the full moon and the toads that showed up after the rain at night. The view from the veranda was breath-taking.
Melon tree/storm clouds
View from veranda/storm clouds
View from the veranda (storm clouds)
Full moon
Full moon and rain ‘drips’
night critters after rain (toads, I think)
From our single-engine flight from Golfito to San Jose.
Sunset over Pacific Ocean
At the San Jose airport, I could not resist purchasing an acrylic painting on canvas from an independent artist busking (approved and legal) in the American Airlines wing.
Wow!
Fifteen days with an objective other than being a tourist was just too few to scratch the surface of finding housing. I’m already itching to go back and look at more rentals in the mountains where we spent 85% of our time.
Hope you enjoyed a pequenito visit to this beautiful place called Costa Rica!