I saunter into my favourite cafe in La Paz, Bolivia: La Terraza - where I know I can get a salad fit for a giant that is delicious, clean and cheap. I'm relieved that no one is smoking and I take a seat in the corner, yet quickly move to window seat, "Much better for people watching!" I joke with the couple at the neighbouring table.
We begin to chat. "We’ve been coming here for 14 years," the couple explains, as they tell stories of their lovely family and their experiences throughout a decade of changes in La Paz. "Wow, that's incredible," I gush in awe. "What a place to be." They offer travel advice of beautiful Incan ruins and luscious gardens, and then, "Have you been to Chacaltaya?" they ask me. "Yes - actually! I've written about that glacier. You must have seen major changes in the last 14 years of coming here..." as my tone drops and I subconsciously shake my head a little. "Chacaltaya?" the woman asks, as if we might not be talking about the same glacier. "The glacier just nearby - it's beautiful."
"When was the last time you were there?" I ask.
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