I'm writing this to provide a little more context to enlightened folks like yourselves about the current situation in Cuba. I do not have any privileged information, just observations as I live in Havana. My husband is a foreign service officer from a country that shall remain anonymous in this diary, but I am American. Though I paraphrase statements my husband has made here, any opinions expressed here are my own. To be honest, I have been reluctant to write about my experiences here, not so much because of possible monitoring by the Cuban government as by our own government.
UPDATED AT BOTTOM
I have satellite TV at home and have been monitoring CNN and MSNBC, since they have provided the most news to Americans about what's going on here. I am dismayed by the amount of attention given to the few dozen people who have gathered to celebrate in Miami. I've been keeping an eye on Cuban news as well, though no more information has been issued since last night's declaration. Several hours will be dedicated to Castro's condition and this temporary government this evening at 6:30 on a debate show called Mesa Redonda (Roundtable). I believe that the same information will be released in the newspaper
Granma tonight or tomorrow, available online at www.granma.cu.
So, what's going on here? Not much. Everybody seems pretty calm, even nonplussed, about the situation. Cubans can't say what they really might be thinking to me; so far, the responses I've gotten are, "Well, he's old," and "It's so just strange because this has never happened before [referring to the handover of power]." They seem to be taking a wait-and-see attitude.
We think that Castro may have been admitted to the hospital as early as Saturday. As my husband and I were driving to the historic center of Havana, we noticed a vastly increased police presence along our main drag, the Quinta Avenida. At a certain point, traffic was even deviated from a tunnel leading from the Miramar district to the Vedado. At the time, we thought that the Líder Máximo was simply being transported from one place to another with extra security. Then we noticed that the police presence remained high Sunday and yesterday, with lots of cars being pulled over randomly. My husband commented, "This is weird. There's something going on." He thought maybe it was in preparation for the upcoming 80th birthday celebrations, or even for the summit of Non-Aligned Countries in September.
We actually got the news last evening by watching CNN. We then ran out to the garage, where our night guardian was watching local TV. He's an older man and seemed quite worried and sad about the news. The letter written by Castro was read repeatedly (at least 10 times) on all stations. It was repeated again this morning on the radio as we woke. TV programming has gone back to its normal schedule.
So, while celebrations continue in Miami, don't think for a second that there's some kind of excitement here. I don't get the sense that there is an undercurrent of unrest bubbling to the surface. Cubans have known for many years that Raul would be put in power in Fidel's place. The question is only how long he will remain there. As long as Fidel is alive, Raul is safe.
It is so difficult to explain in a short space what life under Castro is like here. I'm tempted to say something like, "It's not like those other dictatorships!" which of course is of little solace to anyone who believes in democracy. The political repression is very real, from the neighborhood watch groups that report on any potential anti-revolutionary activity to the long prison sentences for political dissidents, to the sudden disappearance of political figures who fall out of favor or are charged with corruption.
Cultural life, however, is very rich and full of possibilities for expression. Through government organs, there is a strong push for women's equality in all aspects of life (even though the government is dominated by men), as well as racial equality (though a subtle racism exists here too). Linked to the concern for health care, sexuality is openly discussed in newspapers and on TV. The successes here in education and health care should not be undermined because they truly create a sense of well being despite a lack of material goods and, occasionally, undernourishment. In fact, my biggest beef with this regime is food distribution. It doesn't seem to take enough precedence and doesn't proceed in any logical manner, even for us wealthy, dollar-wielding foreign types.
Despite the evident hardships, most people seem content, at least in Havana. I say this in an attempt to understand why people would choose to live under a politically repressive regime. There is a strong sense of family and community sharing. They work really hard, but have plenty of time for recreation, as I can tell from the baseball games constantly taking place in the field in front of my house; from the people power-walking and jogging along the Quinta Avenida; and from the kids who make the short trek from their houses to the ocean, dressed in their bathing suits.
Does that mean they wouldn't give up their bicycles and Soviet-era Lada cars for a new car in a heartbeat? Of course they would. But they are equally aware of the emptiness of a life based solely on consumerism, which is what they see of the U.S. And while I see many people here possessing an entrepreneurial spirit, I don't believe they're willing to give up the security that a socialist state offers. I'm really glad, actually, that Canada and Europe are able to work with Cuba without U.S. interference as public-private ventures grow (particularly in the tourism sector).
Well, this is a pretty short and oversimplified sketch, but that's it for now. I've only got 30 hours per month of internet access, and I've already used over 2 today, which is why I won't be commenting extensively here. I'll try to respond to any questions you have though.
UPDATE: I just finished watching about 20 minutes of Mesa Redonda. Raul was not present, though he had been announced earlier. Instead, the program is a conversation among journalists about the "repercussions" of Fidel's declaration. The program anchor was reading messages of good wishes from various world leaders, starting with Evo Morales. They also spent a lot of time reassuring the public about Fidel's need for rest. They read a short message written by Fidel, in which explains that his illness must remain a "state secret", given the fact that it could be exploited by el Imperio (the U.S.). He says he is in stable condition. Given the absence of government representatives on the program, the brief statement by Fidel, and the need for so much reassurance, I'd say things aren't going so well.