There isn't a Latin expression that rings truer to me. Ne plus ultra may come a close second. I have seen people confessing to unusual habits and revealing their innermost secrets when thoroughly sozzled. That may be the reason why I don't drink in public anymore, for fear of my neighbor knowing all about my passing interest in playing mini golf in the nude or worse, my newly found liking of Doris Day's & Harry James recordings from the notable film "Young Man With A Horn".
I dabble in wine and I have managed to make a living out of it in the last few years. Having been born in France to a family of hoteliers, I remember that as young as seven I was told the difference between a Bordeaux and a Burgundy and was made to sniff out many premier crus though I wasn't allowed to even take a small sip (this I did under the table with my cousins whenever there was a family reunion.)
I favor the New World wines these days as they seem fairer to me in pricing (I mean, who can afford $1.600 for a bottle of Chateau Petrus, still my "ne plus ultra" wine of choice if I had Bloomberg's bank account).
So if you want to splurge on a tenner for a relatively good bottle of wine follow me over the bump.
Ten dollars is all you should need to spend on a decent bottle of wine unless you have just won the lottery, in which case, email me asap and I'll let you know where you can send me a complimentry bottle of your favorite expensive tipple.
The so called New World wines are to be found in South Africa, Australia & New Zealand, Chile, Argentina and yes, the good old USA. Today I'll deal with Argentina and Chile, two of the emerging wine countries that produce highly interesting wines at reasonable prices.
First let me say this: a moderately steady consumption of red wine is believed to be good for one's heart. The antioxidants in wine may account for a protective effect on the vascular system. A report several years ago suggested that Chilean red wine was especially potent because of the country's high altitude vineyards.
I will start with Carta Vieja from the Loncomilla Valley in Maule. Their consultant oenologist is no less than Pascal Marty, formerly of Mouton-Rothschild. Their Carta Nueva blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc is ideal for barbecues, sea-food and goes for a song, around $8 a bottle. Their Carta Vieja Merlot is divine ($9 in most stores) as is the Carta Vieja Cabernet Reserva which goes around the $10/12 range. They do a good organic Pinot Noir, a truly remarkable wine with a wonderful concentration of fruit and a great finish.
Still in Chile we have Vina Escheverria whose family has owned and managed the winery under the watchful eye of Roberto Escheverria in Molina, Curico Valley. From the purity of fruit in the Cabernet and Chardonnay to the elegance of the family's Reserve range which are aged in French barrels, I found that the Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc is a spectacular find, and goes for $11 to 12 a bottle. Don't miss their Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon as it's not only underpriced at $11 a bottle but has a great aromatic complexity and intensity to boot.
Another good find is Vina Carmen (although this particular winery is the oldest in Chile) it is located in the foothills of the Andes where they produce exellent wines using natural gravity for pressing grapes. Their outstanding white is the Reserve Chardonnay( $10), a wine that is made close to heaven, to be sure and tastes like it as does its brother, the Carmenere Cabernet Sauvignon ($10) with its expressive earthy flavors.
Now to Argentina, a country that has me puzzled over the seemingly endless quality of its young wines. First of all, I got this wine by mistake, I had ordered a wine from Mendoza (Altamonte) and got this amazing find, Santa Ana, also from Mendoza. Their blend of Shiraz and Malbec (50/50) is outstanding and only cost $7 or $8. The winery is apparently owned by a Swiss company which goes to show that they can make wine as well as chocolate.
Another impressive vineyard is Santa Julia, run by proprietor José Alberto Zuccardi. they make a sensational Viognier ($9), delicate aromas hinting at peach blossom, then flavors of white fruit, faint dried fruit and a touch of earthiness.
The next one is a personal favorite of mine and costs a little more (around $16) but it is worth the price: Santa Julia Q Tempranillo, Mendoza 2000. "From 26-year-old vines, the wine is aged for one year in new American barrels," says proprietor José Alberto Zuccardi. "We were the first in Argentina to do high quality tempranillo, rather than blend it into bulk." This wine yields ponderous aromas of black fruit and refined leather, then earthy, complex flavors of luscious dark fruit with complex leather and tobacco/spice.
This will do for this week. Remember the words from Jefferson: "I think it is a great error to consider a heavy tax on wines as a tax on luxury. On the contrary, it is a tax on the health of our citizens."
Drink on. What's your wine find and how much did it cost?