A few weeks ago I posted the Provencal edition part one here for those interested in continuity. Today, as promised, I'll deal with the traditional dishes of that region, hence most are called a la Provencale. Next edition will be on how to prepare the perfect Bouillabaisse, a sea-bass dish and a couple of desserts: Madeleines with Lavender honey and Melon Beignets!
Most dishes are easy to prepare and were taught to me by my beloved great-grandmother who knew a thing or two about cooking. Her life was devoted to food, her husband, Provence and Provencal lore and...snuff tobacco, but not necessarily in that order.
Follow me over the bump!
She died aged 94, peacefully, a few months after my great-grandfather, a formidable, austere man, not known for his sense of humour. Intransigence was his middle name. As a kid I could never understand why he was so dour as opposed to my dear great-grandmother who behaved like a breezy sixteen year-old, a song, a ditty or a Provencal poem always at the ready. What I did not know at the time was that his spirit was broken in the trenches of Verdun, in 1917. He once returned a letter from her, from that horrific war theatre, complete with all her orthographic and grammar mistakes underlined in bold red. I will write more about her in subsequent diaries.
The first dish I mastered under her tutelage, aged 7 (even though I started cooking at 5) was a roast chicken with breadcrumb & garlic stuffing, delicately brushed every ten minutes with a bouquet of rosemary & thyme dipped into virgin oil. Though it sounds simple, I managed to burn or overcook a number of birds and only through her patience, I finally delivered the goods on a particularly sombre winter night. These things one does not forget. The next dish I learnt was the following recipe, a most traditional "plat de cuisine", to be eaten hot or cold, summer or winter.
Plat de Legumes a la Provencale
12 medium-sized field mushrooms
6 small eggplants, halved
6 small round zucchinis, halved
6 bell peppers (3 red, 3 yellow), halved and seeded
6 medium-sized tomatoes
12 small red onions
Vegetable stuffing:
1/2 cup olive oil
2 pounds lean minced lamb
12 cloves garlic, finely chopped
a small bunch of finely chopped parsley
6 tablespoons chopped basil
6 large slices country bread (for breadcrumbs)
4 eggs, beaten
200 grams grated Parmesan
Sea salt and black pepper to taste
This is mostly eaten as an appetizer. First, heat up the oven and spray the bread slices with a little oil, then bake till crisp. Use the mixer to make them into breadcrumbs. Being from Provence I can never resist rubbing the bread slices with garlic before baking.
While the bread is in the oven, scoop out the onions, bell peppers, aubergines (eggplants), zucchinis and tomatoes (I use the insides for stock, no waste allowed!) Remove the stalks of the mushrooms and place all the vegetables onto a couple of buttered trays. In a mixing bowl, using a wooden spoon or hardened spatula, add the minced lamb (if that’s a problem to obtain, you can substitute it with either a good beef mince or sausage meat -pork and veal) pour the oil slowly, add the garlic, the herbs, the parmesan and the eggs to bind. I use a forcing bag to fill the vegs, if you don’t have one use the spoon. When the vegetables are filled, cover generously with the fresh breadcrumbs and bake for 30 minutes in a moderate oven (260 Celsius) If you can find a dry rosé, it would go hand in hand with this recipe!
Daube de Boeuf a la Provencale
This is great for a cold winter night. And it can be prepared the day before. The secret lies in the marinade, as usual. No point making this dish for 2 or 3, I make it for 8 or 10 as leftovers rule!
4 pounds boned beef shank (shin or beef), cut into 2-inch pieces, 4 large carrots, cut into ¼ inch bits, 4 red onions, quartered, 6 garlic cloves, finely minced, 2 sprigs of celery, cut in pieces, 20 small mushrooms (whole), salt & pepper to taste, 1 bottle red wine, Cotes du Rhone or a good varietal from your neck of the woods, 4 tablespoons flour, 8 ounces of pancetta (bacon ok if you can’t locate pancetta) 6 sprigs fresh thyme, 1 bay leaf, the peel of one orange, 1 pound of a good brand of Macaroni and ¼ pound of Parmesan.
Combine the meat, carrots, celery and garlic in large mixing bowl. Pour 1 tablespoon olive oil over them and sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Add wine. Cover and marinate for several hours or overnight in the refrigerator. Turn the meat and vegetables in the marinade several times. The next day, strain the meat and vegetables in a large colander over a bowl, carefully setting aside the marinade. Dip the meat in flour on a plate and season with a pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper. In a large cooking pot (cast iron if you have one) heat two spoonfuls of olive oil and add a few pieces of meat at the time, stirring constantly. Add the vegetables, the mushrooms, the onions, the garlic and cover with the marinade with the herbs and the peel of orange.
Separately, cook the pancetta lightly in a small frying pan. When ready add it to the stew. Over low heat, bring meat and marinade to light boil. Place a piece of parchment paper directly over the meat and cover tightly with the lid. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 3 hours minimum. Now and then, check under the parchment paper and prod the meat, skimming off any fat that rises to the top. As the meat stews gently, boil 4 quarts of salted water and add the macaroni. When cooked add it to the stew and serve with freshly grated Parmesan.
Artichauds a la Provencale (stuffed artichokes)
I prepare this quite often as everyone in the household likes artichokes. This is for six persons so you would need two medium-sized artichokes per person.
12 medium-size artichokes, 250 grams home-made breadcrumbs (same method as used with the Provencal stuffed vegetables), ½ cup cream, 1/4 cup chopped parsley, 4 clove garlic, peeled and minced, salt and pepper to taste, 2 medium-size onion, chopped roughly, 4 carrots, scraped and cut in disks, 2 sticks of celery, Bouquet garni of sage, thyme, and a bay leaf, 3 or 4 tablespoons olive oil, 1/2 cup (or more) of a good brand bouillon.
Cut off the tips of the leaves and remove the toughest ones. Cut the base of each artichoke straight across so it can sit down firmly without tipping. Make a mince of the fine bread crumbs, soaked in cream and pressed out, and the parsley mixed with the garlic, salt and pepper.
Slip small spoonfuls of this stuffing between the leaves of the artichokes, putting the largest portions in the center. Put a layer of chopped onion in the bottom of a casserole. Stew over it the carrots cut in disks. Add a small bouquet garni and place the filled artichokes, close together, on this bed. Sprinkle generously with olive oil and place the casserole over moderate heat. After the contents have begun to heat, add 1/2 cup of bouillon. Cover very tightly. Simmer for 1.5 hours or 2 hours. Sometimes I add a bit of grated Fontina cheese for effect!
Thon Provencale a la Ratatouille
There’s nothing to this dish that you don’t know already. Simple and to the point. Fresh tuna steaks only apply!
6 x 200g fresh tuna steaks; 2 aubergines (eggplants); 2 onions; 2 red peppers; 2 green peppers; 2 courgettes (zucchini); 8 large ripe tomatoes; 4 tbsp olive oil; 2 cloves garlic; 2 sprigs fresh oregano; 2 sprigs of rosemary, 1 large handful fresh basil leaves; salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste.
First of all, make the ratatouille. Chop up the onions, dice the aubergines, courgettes and peppers, mince the garlic. In a large frying pan heat 2 tablespoons of virgin olive oil. Add the onions, garlic and aubergines. Cook on quite a high heat for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Then add the peppers, and cook another 2 minutes. Then add the courgettes and cook another 2 minutes. Then add the tomatoes, the fresh oregano, the basil and the rosemary. Cover the pan and let it stew gently for 10-15 minutes (note that in the olden days this recipe called for celery as well, as it was then the emblem of Provence)
Whilst the ratatouille cooks, heat up a little olive oil in another frying pan. Let it get very hot. Fry the tuna quickly for 2-3 minutes on each side, depending on how thick the steaks are and how rare/ medium/ well-done you like your tuna. (Medium-rare is best!)
Take the pan off the heat and allow the tuna to rest for a couple of minutes.
Divide the ratatouille between 6 plates, place the tuna on top, scatter over some basil leaves and finally drizzle with a little more olive oil and a pinch of black pepper.
So, what's on your plate tonight?