Gnocchi are little dumplings. They're mouthwatering, soft pillows of goodness. Like many other dishes that originate from Italy, the ingredients, as well as the sauce they're dressed with, varies by region. Potatoes are a popular ingredient and the one most found in restaurants and homes on this side of the Atlantic, and as far I can tell, also the most popular in Italy too.
I had my gnocchi epiphany on a Thursday in Rome one cold, rainy November evening in 1996. It was American Thanksgiving. MrLear and I were riding a bus heading toward a dining area of the city that we read about in a guide book when we decided to hop off because we observed so many establishments with patrons milling around and checking out menus. The restaurant we ultimately chose was filled with smiling, happy people engaged in conversation over their wine and food - a very good decision our part, as we enjoyed a memorable meal.
It turns out that Thursday is "gnocchi day" in the Mediterranean. Well, maybe not officially but it always seems as if gnocchi (pronounced nok ki) are the daily special in trattorias and osterias then. Doesn't matter when you eat them though. Just do it.
Of course if your nonna is still alive, or she passed down her wonderful recipes to her daughters and grand-daughters (or grand-sons) before she left this world, you might already be familiar with how to make gnocchi and how to serve them. Maybe you're lucky enough to know of a local establishment that has them on their menu. And then, there are the rest of us.
"But Cordelia, can I make them at home?"
"Of course you can. I wouldn't be writing this diary if I didn't think you could."
Sorry.
Excuse my bravado today. But, my memories of eating these little pillows are wonderful. And, you really can prepare delicious gnocchi at home. I promise.
Here are three variations along with a few suggestions about how to sauce them. You're traveling around Italy tonight so be sure to order a liter of local wine. It's probably going to be light and fruity and just irresistible. Don't hesitate.
Potato Gnocchi
Ingredients:
6 large russet potatoes
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs, beaten
4 cups all-purpose flour
dash of ground pepper
grated Parmesan for serving
Method:
Bring six quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of salt to a boil.
Boil the whole potatoes in their skins until easily pierced with a knife, or fork (about 50 minutes). Let cool until you can peel and rice the potatoes and set them aside to completely cool – spreading them out on a sheet pan so you expose the surface to as much air as possible. (evaporating the moisture helps avoid a heavy dumpling when the flour is added to the dough.
On a cool surface, gather the riced potatoes into a mound, forming a well in the center. Stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the pepper into the beaten eggs and pour the mixture into the well. Work the potatoes and flour together with both hands, gradually adding the 3 cups of flour and scraping the dough up from the work surface with a knife, or dough scrapper. This step should take no longer than 10 minutes. If you over work the dough it will become heavy.
Using both hands, roll each piece of dough into a rope 1/2" thick, then slice the ropes at ½" intervals. Indent each dumpling with your thumb and then move the tines of a fork over the top to produce a ribbed effect. Gather the gnocchi on a cookie sheet covered with a damp kitchen towel until all the dumplings have been shaped.
Drop the gnocchi into boiling water a few at a time, stirring gently with a wooden spoon and cook 2 to 3 minutes, until they rise to the surface. Remove the gnocchi from the water with a slotted spoon, let drain and transfer to a warm platter. Add sauce and serve.
Serves 6 as a main course.
Now for the sauce…
A drizzle of good red sauce/gravy/spaghetti sauce is always appropriate with a little grated Parmesan cheese.
Or, you could sauté up some butter, garlic, red pepper flakes and dried ricotta and then toss them with the gnocchi before plating.
And then, you could try this absolutely decadent gorgonzola sauce. Yes you can substitute blue cheese, but it's not as good.
Gorgonzola Sauce
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup milk
½ pound Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
Method:
Heat the butter in a 2-quart saucepan. Add the four and cook together to form a roux. Add the milk and whisk together until smooth. Bring to a simmer, stirring until thickened. Add the cheese and stir until all is incorporated but still a bit lumpy.
Now for another version: Semolina Gnocchi.
Semolina Gnocchi
Ingredients:
1 cup water
3 cups milk
1 ¼ teaspoons salt
1 cup semolina flour
2 tablespoons butter
2 egg yolks
¼ cup Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons additional butter for greasing baking dishes
For the Topping
¼ lb. butter, melted
½ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
Method:
Place the water, milk and salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer and add the semolina slowly, stirring all the time. Cook the semolina for 30 minutes, stirring often, until thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the 2 tablespoons butter, the egg yolks, and ¼ cup Parmesan cheese.
Clean a smooth space of countertop and dampen it with cold water. Pour the mixture onto the smooth damp counter and spread the mixture out to a 3/8-inch thickness and cut into 1 1/2-inch circles using a cookie cutter.
Lightly butter 8 small individual baking dishes and move the cut semolina shapes to the dishes. Drizzle with melted butter and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes until the top begins to brown.
Serves 8 as a pasta course.
And now for your orgasmic experience: East of Florence the spinach grows wild on hillsides… and the ricotta is a big gulp of freshness. It doesn't get any better than this popular Tuscan treat.
Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi
Ingredients:
4 6–ounce packages ready to-use baby spinach leaves
2 cups whole-milk ricotta cheese
1 cup freshly grates Parmesan cheese
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 large egg yolks
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
generous pinch of nutmeg
¼ cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted
Method:
Cook spinach in a large pot of boiling salted water until just wilted – about 2 minutes. Drain. Squeeze out liquid. Chop spinach.
Mix spinach, ricotta, ½ cup Parmesan, ½ cup flour, egg yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in a bowl until a slightly sticky dough forms.
Dust baking sheet with flour. Work in batches and using floured hands, roll ¼ cup dough on a floured surface to form a 5-inch long rope. Cut the rope into 1-inch pieces. Roll each piece between your palms to form an oval. Transfer gnocchi to a prepared baking sheet. Repeat rolling, cutting and shaping with remaining dough.
Work in batches, add gnocchi to pot of boiling salted water and cook until gnocchi rise to the surface. Cook 4 minutes longer. Using a slotted spoon remove the gnocchi from the water and drain. Place in a serving dish.
Pour browned butter over gnocchi and toss with Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper.
Serves 8 as a first course.
Thank you for stopping by the What's for Dinner Café today. It’s a place where Kossacks gather on Saturday evening to discuss good food, culinary experiences, share recipes and ask questions about things that have been plaguing them in the kitchen lately.
Pour yourself a beverage. Put your feet up. Stick around a bit. Most importantly, tell us what you're having for dinner this evening.
And, be sure to come back next week. Same Kos time. Same Kos channel.
Salute!
Cordelia Lear