This is the sixth diary installment of The Dkos Road Tour Series. See explanation at the close of this diary. I trust you will find the information enjoyable and educational. Our destinations today will take us, first, to northwest New Mexico, then to southwest Colorado, and from there to southeast Utah. As a reminder, the information herein is “layered.” Meaning, the reader chooses how much or how little read, graduating from the essentials to more in-depth details. If you like these diaries, it would be appreciated to have your recommendations. Gracias.
CHACO CULTURAL NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK
Location/Geography: Northwest New Mexico. San Juan and McKinley counties. Closet City or Town: Farmington; Aztec. Area: about 34,000 acres (53 square miles/137 km²). Chaco Canyon lies entirely within the San Juan Basin and is surrounded by the Chuska Mountains in the west, the San Juan Mountains to the north, and the San Pedro Mountains in the east.
Coordinates: 36.058333°N 107.958889°W (http://bitly/1mT2qZB)
Google images/maps: http://bitly/1uixG8q
√ Spotlight: A thoroughly engaging and enigmatic archaeological ruins unlike no other! Like a solemn shrine, Chaco is considered one of the most significant archaeological and archaeoastronomy settings in North America if not the world. To some Puebloans, particularly the Hopi, Chaco’s ceremonial function for the Ancestral Puebloans remains a guarded secret. Analysis of pottery shards found here show Chaco’s structures were used between the 900s and 1200s. Solar/lunar alignment of structures typifies its telling cosmological utility to the inhabitants, including contemporary Puebloans. Arid land-turned-fertile due to water conservation. Casa Grande, Casa Malpaís, and Chimney Rock all have something in common with Chaco: a place where observers predicted the changing seasons. Focus: human history, archeology, archaeoastronomy and the Great Drought of the 1300s.
√ Snapshot: It is believed the numerous Great Houses found throughout Chaco’s compound were functional temples and the Ancestral Puebloans made annual pilgrimages for ceremonial purposes. The significance of this means a relative few lived here year-round. From present-day Farmington, New Mexico, on U. S. 550, then to County Road 7900, Ancestral Puebloans headed in this direction for ceremonial events. Possibly, the site was visited by people from far south of the Colorado Plateau (i.e., the Mayans, who may also have played a role in Chaco’s ceremonial functions. These seasonal gatherings entailed not only social activities but also keen observations on the cosmos, religious ceremonies, and other special events. Emphasis on both the cosmos and temporality was, therefore, latent in the ritualistic significance of Chaco. Cosmology revolved around the absolute science of archaeoastronomy and augury heralding the four annual equinox and solstice events. Rimmed by mesas, Chaco is located within remote lowlands circumscribed by dune fields, with a topography generally defined by a mountainous terrain with one locale and significant butte landmark. The layout of the setting generally follows a northwest-to-southwest axis. Home to the most exceptional concentration of archaeological ruins in the Southwest, Chaco was designated a national monument in 1907, and later under the newer and longer title: Chaco Culture National Historical Park with the NPS acting as the governing body. In 1980, an additional 13,000-acre allotment (5,260 square meters) was added.
√ Guided Tour Essentials: The main complexes at Chaco are Pueblo Bonito, Neuvo Alto, and Kin Kletso, all of which played a vital role in Chacoan belief systems. Visitors and scholars alike agree that Chaco represents the most interesting of all archaeological ruins in the Southwest, and some who suggest its compound is the most fascinating on the planet. Certainly, the abundance of curious and functional rock art keeps archaeologists speculating about the reason this unparalleled site was built, then later abandoned. In the wake of their departure, some of the structures were partially destroyed by the people who built and designed this ostensible religious center. Chaco’s masterful layout is set in a secluded high elevation canyon carved by Chaco Wash. With its assemblage of prehistoric ruins, Chaco is the foremost cultural and historical attraction of its kind in North America. One glance at the Great Kiva of Chetro Ketl will suggest why some consider Chaco the most important of all archaeological ruins. Remarkably, as much as is known about this fascinating site, what some might refer to as a mysterious conclave of dwellings, Chaco continues to generate its fair share of speculation. We know only that its assembly of Great Houses and kivas was used during part of the year by the majority of Chaco’s inhabitants, most likely as a ceremonial hub. Indeed, very little is understood about Chacoan ceremonies. Possibly, Chaco was similar in ways to other famous pilgrimage destinations such as Mount Kailash in Tibet (an active site for the past 15,000 years). Given Chaco Canyon’s geographic aspects, there are immense gaps between the southwestern cliff facades. The numerous fingered-side canyons (commonly called “rincons” ) were critical in funneling rain-bearing storms into the canyon, thereby augmenting water resources. For obscure or plain reasons beyond Chaco’s significance, especially the intriguing layout of numerous ruins, this archaeological site may be the most important of its kind in North America. Apart from the Ancestral Puebloans who came and went here over the centuries, many distant tribal people also visited Chaco, bringing with them offerings such as pottery, exotic birds, conch shells, and jewels to mention only some articles. During 900 to 1130, the Chacoan culture was nothing less than industrious; also, exalted. From Chaco Canyon’s inception, inhabitants planned and built multi-storied buildings and extensive roads throughout the 49,700 square miles (128,722 km²) encompassing the San Juan Basin. Indeed, perfectly straight roads originating in Chaco radiate outward for many miles to other Ancestral Puebloan locales. Still, the question remains: Why build roads when these people had no carts, much fewer animals to pull them? Perhaps the answer lies in some religious significance rather than trade. Perhaps, too, the reason had something to do with symmetry to balance in all things, starting with mathematics and ending with perfectly aligned dwellings relating to both the sun and the moon. One thing is for certain, however: all the roads these people engineered led to this epicenter of culture and people came here by the thousands.
The Delphic Mindset Of The Chacoans: Another question often entertained when visiting this site concerns the builders and dwellers. Namely, what were they thinking by aligning most of their structures to either solar or lunar light? Given the precise alignment that entailed precise mathematics of design, having both lights in the sky foretold of a greater planned significance for this site compared to all others because no others featured a dual solar and lunar design concept.
Recently, some archeologists have suggested that several of the large central buildings, especially the most famous, Pueblo Bonito, were used primarily for religious ceremony, whose particular function is not known by outsiders then or now. Chaco Canyon’s cultural center in the Southwest likely served as a hub for outlying Chacoan communities. Because astronomy, specifically the academic discipline of archaeoastronomy, played a pivotal role in Chacoan culture and its ceremonial purpose, meticulous observation of the night sky was a given. So were light and shadow effects governed by sunrise and sunsets. For instance, on a celebrated landmark close to their dwellings, trained observers, possibly holy men (what some might call “shamans” or “priests”) were behind the accurate marksmanship of predicting solstices and equinoxes. Not only these essential times during the year were astutely observed but also forecasting solar noon and the so-called standstill positions of the moon revealed on thirteen light markings on petroglyphs (see below for further explanation). Incredibly, eleven of the major structures within the compound are oriented toward the sun and the moon. Each structure also has an internal geometry that corresponds to the relationships of the solar and lunar cycles. More astonishing is the fact most were built for the express purpose of solar or lunar alignment! The handsome Pueblo Bonito structure, located at the approximate center of Chaco, is given honorable mention because it plays a central role in the site’s archaeoastronomy significance about its array of dwellings.
Bonus Details: Access to Fajada Butte in the 1980s was closed due to the delicate nature of the site but also following damage and erosion caused by tourism. Equally, scholarly studies by the Solstice Project indicates the major buildings of the prehistoric Chacoan culture of New Mexico also entails solar and lunar cosmology in three separate articulations: the orientation of Chaco’s structures, internal geometry, and geographic interrelationships that were developed in relationship to the cycles of the sun and moon. From this evidence, it’s apparent the inhabitants directed their lives, at least, their religious ideals, using such knowledge. Otherwise, we have only contemporary Puebloans, particularly the Hopi, to suggest what religious significance the cosmos meant to their ancestors. On the other hand, they are reticent about betraying too much of their culture's spiritual or religious insight. This general rule also applies to most of the other Puebloan tribes.
Directions: From the north, turn on US 550 at CR 7900 3 miles (4.8 km) southeast of Nageezi and about 50 miles (80 km) west of Cuba (at mile 112.5). The route from 550 to the park boundary is 21 miles (33 km) and includes 8 miles (12.8 km) of paved road (CR 7900) and 13 miles (21 km) of rough dirt road (CR 7950). From the south, there are two routes to Chaco from Hwy. 9 (between Crownpoint, Pueblo Pintado, and Cuba). Both routes vary from rough-to-impassable and are not recommended for low clearance vehicles or RVs. If traveling from Hwy. 57 (which is listed Hwy. 14 on some older maps), this turnoff is located on Hwy. 9 and is 13 miles (21 km) east of Hwy. 370 (at the former Seven Lakes Trading Post this includes 20 miles/32 km). If traveling from Pueblo Pintado, turn north on Navajo 46 for 10 miles (16 km). After this rough dirt stretch, turn left on CR 7900 for 7 miles (11 km), then left on CR 7950. From there, just follow the signs 16 miles (26 km) to the park entrance.
Caution: Both the northern and southern routes include, respectively, 13, 20, and 33 miles of unpaved roads (21, 32 and 53 km). Although these sections of road are infrequently maintained, they are sometimes impassable during inclement weather. For current road conditions call the park: 505-786.7004
Contact Information: Chaco Culture National Historical Park, P. O. Box 220, Nageezi NM 87037. Phone (The Visitor Center): 505-786-7004; Fax 786-7061
Here's my recommendation for a follow-up URL: http://1.usa.gov/1ncpHHl
CHIMNEY ROCK NATIONAL MONUMENT
Location/Geography: Southwest Colorado. Archuelta County. Closet City or Town: Pagosa Springs. Area: 4,100 acres (17 km²). Surrounded by Ute Indian Reservation/San Juan National Forest. Elevation: 6,540 feet (1,993 m).
Coordinates: 38º11’22”N 107º18’16”W (http://bitly/1kTM9qO)
Google images/maps: http://bitly/1lixb8U
√ Spotlight: Loftiest and most isolated of Great Houses built sometime during the 11th-century, which coincides with Chaco Canyon’s greater archaeoastronomical hub. Comparatively, Chimney Rock’s high elevation stretched the view beyond all natural landmark limitations, enabling the inhabitants to see studded buttes in the greater distance. Added benefit of sending fire signals to see and be seen (leaving a distinct trail for others of their culture to follow). Classified as a “lunar standstill site” and was the northernmost annexed Chacoan development. Sacred significance of the prominent twin chimneys. Ceremonial rituals possibly similar to Chaco’s culture. Focus: human history, archeology, and archaeoastronomy.
√ Snapshot: Not to be mistaken for Nebraska's famed Chimney Rock sentinel near the Oregon Trail, southwestern Colorado's Chimney Rock Archaeological Area was home to the Ancestral Puebloans over one thousand years ago. This remarkable setting held great spiritual significance to their culture. The dwellers of this elevated site built over two hundred dwellings and ceremonial chambers (kivas) above the valley floor, possibly with the intent of being closer to the sacred twin rock pinnacles this summit is famous for. Of the one hundred and one structures that may have been permanent, sixteen individual sites are scattered on top of the mesa. However, only four ruins have been stabilized and are open to visitors. Designated an archaeological area and national historical site in 1970, Chimney Rock is under the protection of the USFS and recently was declared a national monument (9/21/2012).
√ Guided Tour Essentials: Chimney Rock was known by the Spaniards as "La Piedra Parada," commonly translated as Standing Rock. The Anglicized designation, “Chimney Rock,” comes from the towering rock formation that resembles the site’s namesake. This conspicuous landmark was familiar to American pioneers passing through this part of the Southwest; also to soldiers. Although the formation is comprised of two stone spires, Chimney Rock implies a single spire, possibly because only one spire is visible when viewed directly from the east or west. The first archaeological researcher on the scene, Jean Allard Jeancon, came up with the idea of naming the taller spire Chimney Rock and the shorter spire Companion Rock, which is also more massive at the base. Thus, he was the first to eliminate any confusion about the edifice. Like everything else, the human story of Chimney Rock begins with its geology, then its flora and fauna, and finally human inhabitation in this locale. At this site, prehistoric dwellers constructed their village at the same time as did other regional sites: between 950 and 1100. The dwellings at Chimney Rock were cleaved and fabricated from sedimentary rock. The complex is composed of eight clusters of residential structures (villages). The cultural development period falls into the Pueblo I and II eras of the Pecos System Classification. Seven of the villages are east of the Piedra River (close to Durango between the Animas and San Juan Rivers). The villages are named accordingly: East Slope, Stollsteimer, Pyramid Mountain, Ravine, North and South Piedra, and High Mesa. The eighth village, Peterson Gulch, is located west and above the Piedra River on Peterson Ridge.
Bonus Details: A Northern Lunar Standstill takes place during a set interval. This special event is when the moon reaches its most northernmost point, occurring precisely every 18.6 years. At Chimney Rock, the moon appears to rise between the two chimneys when viewed from the upper mesa near the Great House. Tree-ring dates verify there were two short periods of occupation here that happened during two consecutive lunar standstill cycles: 1042 and 1060. The most recent consecutive cycle occurred in 1998, followed by another in 2004. The next cycle will occur in 2022. This significance alone attests to the importance of Chimney Rock as an archaeoastronomy site.
Directions: Drive 40 miles/65 km east of Durango and 17 miles (27 km) west of Pagosa Springs via Hwy. 160, then to the summit on an unpaved county road.
Contact Information: Chimney Rock Interpretive Program, P.O. Box 1652, Pagosa Springs CO 80147. Phone: 970-883.5359 (visitor's cabin for in-season)
Here's my recommendation for a follow-up URL: http://bitly/1vcahrn
COMB RIDGE, UTAH
Location/Geography: Southwest Utah. San Juan County. Closet City or Town: Bluff; Blanding. Wilderness Area: nearly 15,000 acres (23 square miles/59.5 km²). Extends from the Abajo Mountains through Monument Valley. Elevation of Cedar Mesa about 6,500 feet (2,000 m).
Coordinates: 37.332ºN 109.653ºW (http://bitly/1onjqha)
Geologic graphics/illustrations: http://bitly/1jwMafO
Google images: http://bitly/1qcxcTz
Maps: http://bitly/1kTMKbN
√ Spotlight: Elongated and stepped hogback ridge possibly measuring some 120 miles (193-km) and about 1-mile (1.6 km) wide. The soaring Mule Ear on its crest is the most conspicuous of all the teeth on this gigantic massif. Ranges in height from 300 feet (91.4 m) to somewhere around 1,000-feet (304 m). Comb Ridge is classified as a monocline, meaning a giant fold in the planet’s crust. A plethora of archaeological ruins along the ridge and inside an adjoining wash. Monarch Cave is a major archaeological attraction in this region. Focus: geology, scenery and hiking and human history.
√ Snapshot: From a geologist’s perspective, Comb Ridge has been tossed up, its high cliffs drawn along the edges, with part of its landmass matter thrown through semi-volcanic fissures. The ridge splits the Colorado Plateau nearly down the middle. Its pronounced linear north-south trending sedimentary flank has prominent spines along the ridge on the southern flank (hence, the description of a hogback). Stretching out between Limestone Ridge and Bluff, Comb Ridge, as viewed from an airplane, earns its descriptive moniker––a giant's comb, only with missing teeth.
√ Guided Tour Essentials: This region’s arresting and lengthy monocline skirts the highway from Monument Valley toward the Abajo Mountains (to the north(. Stretching farther than the eye can see, this landmass is noticeably tilted at an angle of about twenty degrees. Comb Ridge’s north-to-south profile defines two archaeologically-rich washes boasting a wonderland of ruins and glyphs. On the eastern side, the ridge slopes up gently from Butler Wash. On the western side, the ridge drops vertically into Comb Wash, marking a distance of 800 to over 1,000 feet (245 to 300 m). In places, a slickrock playground abounds. The region is a veritable geologic showcase and a repository of human history artifacts. Both Butler Wash and Comb Wash flow into the San Juan River, which cuts through Comb Ridge between Bluff and Mexican Hat. (The ‘ridge’ from a raven’s higher perspective.)
Geology: Monoclines are remarkable wonders to behold anywhere they appear on the Colorado Plateau. Comb Ridge, Capitol Reef (Torrey, Utah), Colorado National Monument (Grand Junction), and the San Rafael Swell (Green River, Utah)––these are all places where exceedingly lengthy ridges of steeply tilted strata lead the viewer on for miles over a distinctive looking landscape of flat-lying sedimentary rocks. These giant folds in the planet’s crust are unique but what makes Comb Ridge an exceptional landmark asset is the overall environs where its prolonged hogback stretches out. Here indeed is a gorgeous land of color and fascinating geology viewed in all directions.
Comb Ridge’s geologic formations entailed in its east-dipping strata of the fold include the Navajo Sandstone, Kayenta Formation, Wingate Sandstone and Chinle Formation. Each geologic period was formed during the Jurassic Period (201.3 to 152.1 myr). There is also the Moenkopi Formation from the Triassic Period (252.2 to 208.5 myr) and Organ Rock Formation from the Permian Period (298.9 to 254.2 myr). The structure itself denotes the surface exhibition of a deep fault running along the east margin of the regional Monument Uplift. It is this conspicuous east side of the upwarp and its step-like fold that consists of intermittent zones of steeper dips within an otherwise horizontal or gentle dipping sequence. Given the overall view, the step-like fold engenders a pleasant monoclinal contrast. For those who have the time to spare, an approximate two-hour drive from north to south (or going the other way) commands one’s attention for over 100 miles (160 km). The striking profile of this landmark’s foundation of mixed formations appears like folded taffy created by a stack of originally flat or planar strata gently bent or curved. Hence, the eye candy motif on display throughout this sector of Utah. (“myr” indicates millions of years ago)
In a singularly fashioned landscape of typical flat-lying strata, Comb Ridge’s prolonged deformation of strata is what makes it so outstanding and visually appealing. Indeed, its elevated and colorful landmass is striking on the horizon to the point it is considered by many the most scenic landmass attraction in this part of southeast Utah. With its blend of this or that Mesozoic Era sedimentary rock formation, including one layer left over from the earlier Paleozoic Era, it’s also a geologic textbook on display.
Bonus Details: In 1859, Captain J. N. Macomb of the U. S. Corps of Topographic Engineers led one of the earliest expeditions into southeastern Utah. However, he was not impressed by the scenery. He completed his assignment, then left. Macomb and the equally famed geologist, Dr. John S. Newberry, were also the first to describe and sketch the geographic features of Comb Ridge. Years later, the Hayden Survey (1874 - 1876) published the first map depicting the geographic, archaeological and geological features of southeastern Utah, including key archaeological sites on Epson Creek, now known as Comb Wash. The map also named several other major tributaries of the San Juan River. Additional topographic features were made in later years, which established the current names for Butler and Comb Wash (see following).
COMB WASH RUINS
√ Guided Tour Essentials: Comb Wash is a major drainage for the area, with tributaries draining from Cedar Mesa to the west, as well as down the face of the monocline. The wash is a valley in southeastern Utah (San Juan County). Its drainage extends from Elk Ridge in the north approximately 35 miles (56 km) to the south, where it merges with the San Juan River at an elevation of about 4,200 feet (1,280 m).
Image: Monarch Cave Ruin
The eastern edge of the wash forms sheer and impressive cliffs of Navajo Sandstone, rising in places to 1,000 feet (300 m) above the valley floor. Bedrock in the wash ranges in age from the Pennsylvanian Halgaito Shale to the lower Jurassic Navajo Sandstone of the Glen Canyon Group. On three of four compass points one finds enticing places to explore, including at the center: on the western edge of Comb Wash is a series of canyons draining Cedar Mesa; to the north is Arch Canyon, claiming Texas Canyon as an upper tributary; and to the south are McCloyd's Canyon (containing Moon House Ruin) and Road Canyon. Mule Canyon, Dry Wash, and the combined outlet of Fish and Owl canyons form the major drainages in the central sector. Scattered throughout these canyons are numerous cliff dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloans. The sinuous wash lines the way along the base of a spectacular north-south ridge with 800-foot-high (243 m) cliffs jutting from the planetary crust. In this area, ruins of dwellings are numerous and obvious. For example, Fallen Roof Ruin in Road Canyon. The Comb Wash Trail, which runs down the west side of Comb Ridge, is the path to take for this and many other remarkable archaeological sites. Road Canyon also has an inventory of ruins that number in the hundreds!
As a literary aside, Comb Wash earns its fame, for this setting is where the writer Ed Abbey's fictional Monkey Wrench Gang novel sabotaged road-building equipment. Its sequel, Hayduke Lives! continues the madcap adventures of Abbey's usually eccentric characters.
Exploring the wash and its surroundings is advised only for those who are willing to exert themselves and go hiking to see the splendid ruins and exquisite sandstone country of southeast Utah. The best time for hiking and exploring Comb Wash is during the spring and fall. (If interested, VALLEY OF THE GODS features excerpts from two of Abbey’s aptly-named monkey wrench novels.)
Image: Fallen Rock Ruins
Directions: North of Monument Valley with main access points between Bluff and Blanding, Utah, west of Hwy. 191. Hwy. 95 crosses the northern flank and Hwy. 163 crosses further south. Take CR 235 (Comb Wash Road) for closer access points (Mule, Owl, Fish and Road canyons).
Contact Information: Since Comb Wash, like Comb Ridge, is managed by the BLM, try contacting the Comb Wash Campground (run by the BLM), located 12 miles (19 km) west on Hwy. 95 (Blanding). Phone: 435-587.1500. Another option is to contact the BLM Monticello Field Office, 435 North Main, P. O. Box 7, Monticello UT 84535. Phone: 435-587.1500
Here's my recommendation for a follow-up URL: http://bitly/1onkC4c
FYI: This latest installment of THE DKOS ROAD TOUR SERIES provides an excerpt from the larger text, SCENIC ICONS OF THE SOUTHWEST (http://amzn.to/2on3z89). The soft cover 8.5 x 11 format (491 pages) provides the same information but also includes a thorough background on geology, natural and human history and miscellaneous subject matter. Additionally, there is an Android app available and the less expensive Kindle version. For information about myself and my books featured on Amazon, feel free to drop by www.richholtzin.com and leave a comment. I also write under the nom de plume, RK ALLEMAN. For more background about this tour series, please read the 3/29/2017 diary, HIT THE ROAD TOUR SERIES: An Introduction.
Another installment of this series will be next Sunday. Hopefully, every Sunday there will be a trio of new scenic icons for the reader’s enjoyment and enlightenment. (For those who want to know where they’re going in these upcoming tours, the previously mentioned introduction lists a Table of Contents (in alphabetical order).
About The Author: Rich, who writes under the nom de plume, RK ALLEMAN, has worked in the field as an outdoors educator and interpreter for the likes of the Grand Canyon Field Institute (nearly 20 years), Northern Arizona University (Flagstaff), and Yavapai College (Prescott, AZ). For nearly 40 years, he has backpacked some 8,000 miles, not including hiking sorties. Most of his works focus on the geosciences (mainly, geology, archaeology, and ecology), human and natural history applicable to the Colorado Plateau Province (aka the “Four Corners Region of the Southwest).
FYI: Previous diaries:
Intro diary http://bit.ly/2nu738O
1st diary http://bit.ly/2opAB6Y
2nd diary http://bit.ly/2oe49Cm
3rd diary http://bit.ly/2pFVvMo
4th diary http://bit.ly/2oVFGDQ
5th diary http://bit.ly/2qlfctX