One of the silliest notions about cooking is that turning out a delicious meal is a formidable task, requiring exotic ingredients and expensive gadgets and obscure techniques and hours of work and ghees and grand flourishes.
But, if the property "delicious" were dependent on saffron and "don't try this at home!" techniques, there'd be no human race because we would have perished from starvation and malaise eons ago.
Really, it's just common sense. Anyone who's ever toddled out to their tomato garden on a summer evening to munch on freshly picked tomatoes wrapped in fresh basil or thyme knows there is nothing any cook can do to improve that flavor.
Not to mention that, in this day and age, who has time to hunt down -- much less, shoot -- the necessary ingredients for:
A fowl weighing seven pounds, stuffed with truffles, so that it has become a spheroid.
A patte perigord in the form of a bastion.
A cask a la Chambord richly dressed and decorated.
A pike stuffed with craw–fish secundum artum.
A pheasant dressed a la sainte alliance.
Asparagus, large as possible, served up in osmazome.
Two dozen ortolans a la provencale, as the dish is described in the Cook’s Secretary.
A pyramid of sweet meats, flavored with rose and vanilla.
Thus: the lowly crockpot is our friend.
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Overcoming Fear of this Diary
Yes, it's long. So, for your convenience, I've labeled the sections - - - take what you need and leave the rest:
I. Overcoming Fear of the Crockpot
II. The Lowly Artichoke (plus impromptu dipping sauce and aioli)
III. Theory of Caramelized Onions
IV. Sweet Red Pepper Soup with Rosemary
V. The Impetuous Caponata
VI. Butternut Squash
VII. The Meal I Didn't Make Which You Should
VIII. Proposition: The Crockpot as Democratic Populist
IX. Abrupt Conclusion
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I. Overcoming Fear of the Crockpot
The crockpot is your friend. It isn't just some weird container for the Velveeta-RoTel Tomato dip your parents always put out, but a versatile, time saving, energy efficient device.
And, it's nearly impossible to ruin anything in one. Okay, so that's totally untrue, but don't let it stop you. Instead, take to heart that information is power, as they say, and by learning just a few basic pointers, you, too, can turn out tasty meals with a crockpot.
Rather than recant the conventional wisdom, I've gathered a few links which might help you overcome your Fear of Crockpots --- or remind you why you used to like cooking in one so much.
Some basic guidelines for crockpot cooking can be found here and here.
Epicurious, however, does a better job with its overview, and Crock-pot Cookin's Journal is awesome, with info on everything from cooking time conversion to cannoli.
And there's a wealth of info on del.icio. A simple search turned up everything from gruesomely awful recipes to sophisticated delicacies which left my mouth watering. Handy tool!
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II. The Lowly Artichoke (plus impromptu dipping sauce and aioli)
I have two crockpots: one big (4 quarts) and one small (1 quart). I use both all the time, and especially like the small one for making oatmeal (cook steelcut oats on low with some cinnamon and blueberries and whatever else you like, and you wake up to a nice, hot breakfast).
This week, I used it to cook myself an artichoke. And another one. And another. You could cook a few at a time more efficiently (and cost effectively) in a big one, but I thought I was only going to eat one. Yea - right.
Crockpot Artichoke (single serving)
1/2 lemon, thinly sliced
Artichoke
Pressed garlic, 2-3 cloves
- Turn crockpot on high; Boil water and pour into crockpot, filling it about halfway; (I do this to save time when I'm using the small crockpot --- it's up to you whether you want to);
- Trim most of the stem off the artichoke; Cut off not quite a quarter of the top; Using scissors, snip off pointy, tough ends of leaves; I don't tear any leaves off - YMMV;
- Place artichoke top down in crockpot; Add lemon slices and garlic;
- Cover and cook for 30-45 minutes, or until base is easily penetrated by knife;
- Remove from crockpot and drain before serving by placing top side down in a sieve over a bowl.
I usually like artichokes with a lemon-butter sauce, but didn't have any butter, so improvised with a new faux mayonnaise made from flax seed oil by Spectrum. If you're worried about GMOs, it contains soy, but the soy's been certified non-GMO. You can substitute regular mayo for the Spectrum, oregano or thyme for the basil, etc.
Dipping Sauce
2 tablespoons Spectrum Flaxseed Mayonnaise
Lemon juice, to taste (I used at least half a tablespoon - YMMV)
Pressed garlic, 1 clove
Dried basil, ~ 2 teaspoons
A dash of cayenne pepper
Tamari, a dash - or two
- Mix well;
- Let sit a while;
- Serve with artichokes!
Even better: aioli. I've cut this recipe in half before, and it works fine. Gives you a nice workout, too. The biggest problem is, it makes a lot, so I don't make it unless I have a herd to feed or otherwise know I'll be able to use it all within a day or so.
Aioli
Pressed garlic, 7-8 cloves or however many suit your fancy
2 egg yolks (mxwing posts how to pasteurize eggs here)
Ground black pepper (preferably freshly ground)
Salt (it does help)
4 teaspoons lemon juice
1 1/2 - 2 cups olive oil (as needed)
- Allow ALL ingredients to come to room temperature before you begin;
- Combine garlic, pepper and salt in a mortar and pestle or processor and grind to a paste; I press the garlic first because it makes it a bit easier, but YMMV;
- Transfer to a bowl and add egg yolks; beat with a whisk until well blended;
- Very slowly add 3/4 to 1 cup of the olive oil, whisking the entire time;
- Slowly whisk in lemon juice;
- Continue adding olive oil very slowly while whisking until aioli acquires the proper consistency;
- You can add warm water, if you like, if the aioli gets too thick.
Mmmmmm. But use it quickly! It doesn't keep well.
And be careful with raw egg yolks. Salmonella isn't a problem for most of us - but it is for some. So, if you're feeding younguns or elderlies or anyone with a compromised immune system, follow the link in the recipe to pasteurize them and zap the evil salmonella.
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III. Theory of Caramelized Onions
This is time intensive. The question: is it worth it? The answer: Yes and no. You can make enough to freeze, which is a plus --- but they're also pretty yummy to eat by themselves, so they might not make it to the freezer. Plus, I'm not convinced this is a better way to go than just cooking the amount you need as you need it. So - half and half.
That said, I think cooking tricks like this are good to know about. So I kept it in the diary.
Caramelized onions are my secret ingredient for everything from Sweet Red Pepper Soup with Rosemary to Caldo Verde. I've always done them stovetop, but wanted to try doing it in a crockpot, in order to save energy costs.
If you don't know about caramelization, Wikipedia explains that it is :
... the oxidation of sugar, a process used extensively in cooking for the resulting nutty flavor and brown color.
If you're a caramelization novice, try experimenting with a small amount in a pan on the stove. Throw some butter on and heat it til it just begins to bubble, then toss in some chopped sweet yellow onion and stir every few minutes. Taste the onions after they've become translucent. Starting to get sweet, eh? Then, taste them again after they've turned a lovely caramel color - it's almost like dessert.
Once you get a handle on caramelization, you can adjust the degree of sweetness by how long you cook and your choice in onion. Me, I prefer yellow onion for caramelizing and never use red or white, although some people have great success with them.
Just don't let the onions burn or turn crispy. The goal (if you're going for maximum caramelization) is to cook them until they're a lovely caremelish brown.
Also ... think about the dish you're preparing before chopping the onions. I prefer wedges and big chunks for robust dishes, like stews, and diced or rounds for stocks and onion soups.
And if you don't want to use butter, you can use oil. But I've never been able to get the caramelization I like with anything but unsalted butter. YMMV.
I used a recipe by Lora Brody over on Epicurious as a template, but found her approach only steamed my onions --- and nothing will ruin caramelized onions quicker than steaming. So I made some adjustments which make the process more complicated and time consuming, but yielded better results, in my opinion. It's worth your time to check Brody's recipe, though - you might have good results with it.
Crockpot Caramelized Onions
Sweet onion, 3 pounds
1 stick unsalted butter
- Turn crockpot on high;
- Toss butter in to melt;
- Chop onions and begin throwing in once butter has melted; I tossed in an onion at a time, and stirred well; I then cooked each batch until it wilted down a bit before adding the next batch;
- When all onion is in crockpot, leave uncovered and continue stirring every few minutes (this helps ensure the onions don't merely steam);
- When onion has become fairly translucent, cover, but leave on high and remove lid to release steam and stir every 15 minutes or so;
- When onions have reduced nicely and are beginning to acquire a nice amber color, you can turn down the heat and lessen your vigilance - it took about 1 1/2 - 2 hours to reach this stage in my crockpot;
- Continue cooking for however many hours is needed to achieve proper caramelization (anywhere from 8-10 hours), removing the cover and stirring every now and again.
Hints
Do not cover the crockpot until the onions have cooked down a bit. If you do, you run the risk of steaming instead of caramelizing.
To further ensure against steaming, stir every so often after you've put the lid on, and remove liquid from under the lid with a tea towel --- or your sleeve, like I did.
Never add water! Resist the temptation.
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IV. Sweet Red Pepper Soup with Rosemary
It's been a while since I made this dish, but it's yummy. Truth is, I was a soup and specials cook many moons ago, and this would always sell out halfway through lunch. It's good and really not hard.
I've never formally quantified the amounts for making this at home, and danged if I know where the original recipe is - I first found it in a newspaper somewhere, and the clipping has long since vanished.
But the following works well, and the secret, in my opinion, is caramelized onion.
Note for vegetarians: I don't know how this would be with vegetable stock, but it's worth a try. Just be sure that your veggie stock is very simple, and doesn't contain ingredients which would clash with the red pepper and rosemary. Eg, celery. My tastebuds say yick for that combination. Maybe try some kind of onion stock?
Sweet Red Pepper Soup with Rosemary
15 ounce jar sweet red bell peppers (you can try roasting your own, but I suspect it would add a layer of taste which would completely alter the soup; besides, you want the juice from the jarred)
2 large sweet yellow onions
1/4 stick butter
2 large potatoes
Optional: Chicken or veggie stock, homemade (the canned stuff simply isn't a good compromise, imo - YMMV) or milk
Heavy cream
Rosemary
Ground black pepper
Salt to taste
- Peel and quarter potatoes; boil until soft enough to mash - do not process; mash with fork or masher, and set aside;
- Melt butter, chop the onions and cook until fairly brown;
- Toss some rosemary in the pot while the onions are cooking;
- Once onions have reached the degree of caramelization you want, toss in the entire jar of sweet red bells, including juice;
- Allow to cook 30 - 45 minutes, stirring every few minutes; you can add a bit more rosemary, if you like, but be careful - you want not too much, but not too little;
- Remove peppers, onion and rosemary from pot; process in a blender or food processor until somewhat decimated, but with a bit of body left;
- Pour peppers, onion and rosemary back in pot; begin adding potatoes, a spoonful or two at a time, stirring to blend well;
- When most of the potatoes have been added in, pour in a bit of cream (~1/2 cup) and stir, then add enough stock or other liquid (cream? milk? your choice) to thin to desired consistency;
- Heat on low; taste when at serving temp and adjust flavors and consistency by adding salt, more rosemary, remaining potatoes, stock, ground black pepper, whatever you think it needs;
- Serve!
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Quick hint: If you're watching your salt intake or simply don't like salty foods, try soaking olives in cold water. Change the water a couple of times the first day or two, then leave in a container of water in the fridge. This works with capers, too.
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V. The Impetuous Caponata
In last week's What's for Dinner?, maracatu posted a yummy recipe for baigan achari, or eggplant caviar. I was determined to make it this week and purchased the loveliest eggplant for that purpose.
And I knew I didn't have any black cumin (although I will next year because I now have the seeds - four packs of them), but decided eh, I can figure it out.
So late one evening, I determined the time was right, and began assembling ingredients - which, for me, means grabbing things from hither and yon and putting them on any available space on my ridiculously crowded counters.
And then ... catastrophe. I'd forgotten I'd run out of fennel the week before.
I went looking for the anise to substitute. It was nowhere to be found.
Damn. Just ... damn.
So I cut the stem off the eggplant and stuck it in the oven to roast while considering my options.
Baked Eggplant with Yogurt wouldn't do --- besides, I've shifted into a decidedly Mediterranean gear.
What about caponata? Hmmm - missing half the ingredients for it, too.
But heck, I decided - let's do it anyway.
And believe it or not, it was fabulous and easy as pie. I served it with my newest invention, Faux Goat Cheese - but you'll have to wait until next week's What's for Dinner?, where I plan to reveal not just that recipe, but more about the mysterious yogurt.
The Impetuous Caponata
1 eggplant --- choose a smaller, completely smooth eggplant with the tiniest possible dimple in its hiney
Olive oil
Green salad olives, about 10 if they're small - add the red thingies, too
Capers, about 8-10
Pressed garlic, 4-6 cloves (depends on size of eggplant)
Balsamic vinegar
- Roast eggplant until the skin is shriveled and the eggplant has collapsed in size;
- Remove eggplant from oven; meanwhile, turn crockpot on high and add olive oil;
- Peel eggplant and begin smooshing it by slicing it into small squares;
- Put eggplant in strainer to drain - I press on it with a spoon to speed the process and smoosh it some more;
- When your kitchen is flooded with the scent of heated olive oil, toss drained eggplant in crockpot;
- When eggplant has heated through and is beginning to cook, add olives, capers and garlic;
- Cook on high for about 45 minutes (your time may vary - my crockpot gets very hot!), stirring every once in a while;
- When the kitchen (and house) smells beyond yummy, add balsamic vinegar - 1-2 tablespoons;
- Cook for another 5-10 minutes;
- Serve!
I found this benefited from a dash of salt and freshly ground black pepper. YMMV, of course. And it was fab with my faux goat cheese.
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VI. Butternut Squash
The hardest part to making crockpot butternut squash good is finding a good one. Look for a nice heavy gourd with no soft spots or mold.
Butternut Squash
Butternut squash
Herb or spice of your choice (I used cayenne) - or nothing at all! A good butternut squash is flavorful enough on its own.
- Cut off stem, then halve or quarter the squash, depending on your crockpot and your intentions for it;
- Scrape seeds out; save them if you want to see if they'll grow in your garden!;
- Sprinkle with cayenne or paprika or whatever suits your fancy;
- Arrange in crockpot; turn crockpot on high, if you're going to be home while it's cooking, or low if you're not;
- If you're cooking on high, rearrange the pieces every now and again, as the ones touching the sides will cook much faster;
- When squash is very soft and hot and starting to collapse, it's done; it took about an hour and a half on high in my crockpot - it will take much longer on low;
- Serve however you like - I mixed a little honey and butter to dip it in, but a good butternut squash will be so sweet, this is really unnecessary.
I tried to make a tamarind sauce from scratch for this, but so far - disaster! Tamarind is very sour - a little goes a long way. When I figure it out, I'll post the recipe, but so far, it involves peeling and cooking down about a quarter - half a pound of tamarind in the small crockpot with some water, lots of ginger, lemon and apples. I have tons of it frozen now, and am planning to figure this recipe out this spring.
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VII. The Recipe I Didn't Make Which You Must
Oh. My. Gawd. The nicest recipe I've found in a long time: African Sweet Potato Stew with Red Beans.
This is a keeper for the next time autumn comes around. If anyone makes it before next fall, please report back.
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VIII. Proposition: The Crockpot as Democratic Populist
::cue Merle Haggard::
It's a big job just gettin' by with nine kids and a wife
I been a workin' man dang near all my life
And I'll be working long as my two hands are fit to use
I'll drink my beer in a tavern
Sing a little bit of these working man blues
I keep my nose on the grindstone, I work hard every day
Might get a little tired on the weekend, after I draw my pay
But I'll go back workin, come Monday morning I'm right back with the crew
I'll drink a little beer that evening
Sing a little bit of these working man blues
If populist is defined as an advocate of democratic principles and supporter of the rights and power of the people, and Democratic as [o]f, characterized by, or advocating democracy: democratic government [...] of or for the people in general [...] believing in or practicing social equality ...
... and if the crockpot is:
When cooking small- to medium-sized meals, it is generally more efficient to use smaller microwave ovens, toaster ovens, or slow-cook crockpots.
My wife & I used to own a B&B and many times we had Winter fare working in the pot as we were too busy with daily operations to worry about our own cooking and it was a great time saver for us.
... and if we, as Democrats, support the environment, the rights of working families, overwhelmed single parents and everyone else (because let's face it, how many of us have time anymore to labor over a stove every day?), and access to useful, time saving, energy efficient devices for those making under $150,000 a year ...
... then we can conclude that the crockpot is indeed a Democratic Populist.
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IX. Abrupt Conclusion
Okay, so that's that for me, although you'll be seeing me again next week when I'll be talking about yogurt and my new faux goat cheese invention --- or perhaps I'll tell you all The Moving Personal Story of a Culinary Terrorist --- or, well, who knows?
Although I have a confession to make: I fell off the vegetarian wagon - major. I knew I was running into some kind of vitamin B deficiency because I was getting that funny dry skin around my nose.
So I got some B vitamins, and assumed that would be the end of it.
And the vitamins solved the dry skin --- but I then found myself dreaming of meat. And getting more and more tired. And fantasizing about meat.
So I went insane at the store and bought a gigantic buffalo sirloin, and ate it all within minutes of cooking it.
And my tiredness went away shortly thereafter. And I'm back to feeling kind of peppy.
So it seems I need to be worrying about more than taste in my quest to become vegetarian. But I'll figure it out.
How about you all? What's for dinner at your place?