So, quick disclaimer: This diary is not political in nature. If this disappoints you too greatly to read on, feel free to read my other diaries.
If you're still reading, that means you likely have some interest in the Blues. Which, as most Blues fans know, comes from Mississippi. My state has been getting a lot of flak recently thanks to some colorful comments on the Confederacy by Haley Barbour. But our Governor does not speak for all of us.
Mississippi is a beautiful, forgotten state, particularly in the Delta region. Some parts of which have yet to evolve past the 1930s. But Mississippi mustn't be written off; this state is the home of some of this country's friendliest people, most beautiful music, and most dramatic landscapes.
Allow me to share some of the best of what my state has to offer to my fellow Kossacks below the fold? Chicken and beer is on me, as always. But bring your friends Robert Johnson and Son House along, if you like. These photos will be even more enjoyable if you have some slide guitar going in the background.
These pictures are all from the Juke Joint Blues Festival that happened this past weekend, in Clarksdale, MS. Coahoma County, MS is the heart of the Mississippi Delta, and some of the world's most legendary bluesmen play here. Along with just some really colorful characters.
David "Honeyboy" Edwards is the last living link to Robert Johnson, the man considered by many to be the father of the Delta Blues. RJ, that is. Honeyboy, born in Shaw, MS, was a close friend of Robert Johnson's, and says he was there the night RJ got poisoned by a jealous husband, and died when he was just 27. Johnson is credited with the original recording of "Sweet Home Chicago," but Honeyboy wrote it. He also won a lifetime achievement Grammy at this year's ceremony. At age 94, he is the oldest bluesman to still be on tour other than his good friend Pinetop Perkins, at the ripe old age of 96. And if you've heard his Library of Congress recordings, you should know that those recordings came from Clarksdale, MS, where this here festival was and where I took this picture. Speaking of old Blues guys...
The man behind this guitar is James Louis Carter Ford, aka T-Model Ford. He's from Forest, MS, and didn't even pick up a guitar until he was 58. He's 89 now, and knows that his birthday is in June, but isn't sure what day. He can't read or write or even spell his real name, but he makes up for it with the stories that he tells. From the above article-
Before his days as a blues guitarist, the Forest native lived a life that would make DMX blush. He was once sentenced to 10 years on a chain gang for murder, although he only ended up serving two.
"I was the devil when I was a younger man," T-Model says. "I was the type of man who'd walk up to you, laugh at you and knock the hell outta you."
T-Model said his roughest days were more than 30 years ago, when he first started playing out. He recalled a story from playing a club in Greenville.
"I slapped a man—he was 6 foot tall, workin' for the city. He snatched a cigarette outta my mouth," T-Model says. "I took my strap off, set my guitar down. He pulled a pistol out. When he pulled that pistol, I slapped him. Blood went everywhere. He bawled. I looked down, kicked him all upside the head. He didn't get up. I heard he had a stroke after that. I don't think he ever came back to Greenville. I didn't feel sorry for him."
T-Model Ford describes his reputation as a "sure enough dangerous man."
"I didn't let nobody whoop me. I didn't argue with you. Like I tell you, me and you get in an argument, I'll done hit you before you know it. I didn't care how big you were, ain't nobody ever whooped me before. Even in the shape I'm in, I don't think anybody could whoop me now," he says.
(I wrote that article, so if it seems like I'm citing heavily from it, that's why. Check out his myspace if you want to know more about him!)
This is Mr. Easy. Not long after I arrived, I found this guy blowing some harp on the street. After talking to him, I found out that he's a retired machinist, and lost his arm in a bad accident about 5 years ago. He hails from Texas City, TX, and comes to the Juke Joint Festival every year, says it's his favorite.
I never did get this guy's name. He's one of the meanest slide guitar players I've ever seen, and had quite a crowd. Just him and his guitar, leaning up against the wall of a bank with his guitar case out, hoping for tips. The guy could fill a concert hall if he had a label. But he had the street corner pretty packed.
Deak Harp is seen here, doing his one-man band deal. You can't see it here, but he's got a pedal attached to a snare drum that he stomps on, while singing and blowing his harp. He had lots of energy, got me boogeying in the middle of the street. But I'd be doing the Juke Joint a disservice if I just focused on the musicians.
At the main stage around Saturday evening, a group of students from Delta State University, over in Cleveland, were laying down some seriously funky jams. They ended their set with a Michael Jackson tribute, and I got my moonwalk on. Managed to not spill a drop of my beer! And this girl here looked so happy, so I made her the subject of my picture.
They call this guy Wild Bill. He's a lively, vivacious older man from Clarksdale, who was sitting next to a friend of his, Al, who was much calmer. Both were very friendly people, and were sitting outside of the New Roxy Theatre with a huge 5-gallon jug of something they called "Mississippi Swamp Water." After a few cups and some conversation, I found out that this powerful concoction is a blend of pineapple juice, amaretto, sweet/sour margarita mix, and everclear. It was really delicious. And two cups had me buzzing real good the rest of the night.
Brooke is two years old, and likes to bang on the drums. Her mom actually encourages her, instead of telling her to cut out that racket. Brooke is gonna rock the world one day with her drumming.
This is just a cute little girl, about 2 years old. Her mom let me take a picture of her kid, but not of her, said she was too embarrassed. The people of Clarksdale were great to get to know, but the city itself is such a charming little place.
A mural in downtown Clarksdale. I believe the three blues legends shown here are John Lee Hooker, Muddy Waters and Koko Taylor.
I'll follow this with several other shots of Clarksdale. These pictures don't do it justice; I took over 200 photos this weekend, and these pictures are the cream of the crop. I'll add a link at the end of this diary if you're interested in more.
Now, all of these Bluesmen and Blues fans come to Clarksdale every Spring for the festival, but some might be asking, what makes the Delta so special? Why do all the Blues originate from that one region?
The heart of the Mississippi Delta (Coahoma, Leflore, Holmes, Sunflower, Bolivar, Tallahatchie, Issaquena Counties) is the poorest part of the poorest state. It is largely rural. Most of the country's cotton and soybeans come from this area. There is very little to no internet connectivity, let alone water supplied from municipal authorities. No matter the year, it's like driving through the 1930s. Even though Mississippi is ranked last in nearly every social welfare category, they say if we annexed the Delta and didn't include that region in its studies, Mississippi would rank in the top 20s of those categories.
Driving through the Delta shocked me in both its desolation and its raw beauty. I hoped to capture both of those with these pictures. But again, these don't do it justice. You really just have to go and see it for yourself.
And here's the link to the rest of the album not included here, if you're still interested in seeing more.
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