Cumberland Island National Seashore. It's probably not a place you're familiar with, unless of course you're truly a National Park Service connoisseur or from southern coastal Georgia or northern coastal Florida. In fact, Cumberland Island is probably one of the less traveled parks and for good reason: there's no bridge to the island. The only way to visit is by ferry, boat, or the mode I choose: kayaking.
From the National Park Service's Geologic Resources Inventory:
Cumberland Island National Seashore occupies most of Cumberland Island, a largely undeveloped barrier island that has the longest beach (28 km; 17.5 mi) and most upland acreage (6,110 ha; 15,100 acres) of any of Georgia’s barrier islands. The park’s boundaries also include Little Cumberland Island, a small privately-held landmass separated from the rest of Cumberland Island by Christmas Creek. Cumberland River and Cumberland Sound separate Cumberland Island from the mainland. South of the island, the St. Marys River flows into the Atlantic Ocean and separates Cumberland Island from Florida’s Amelia Island. Jekyll Island, the next island to the north, is separated from Cumberland Island by the Satilla River and St. Andrews Sound. The park allows a maximum of 300 visitors per day, transported to the island via a passenger ferry leaving from St. Mary’s, Georgia, although other visitors to the island may arrive by private boats.
Four friends and myself launched on a Friday morning from Crooked River State Park in Georgia (shown below,
larger link here), and kayaked the six plus miles to the Plum Orchard dock. We followed the Crooked River east past King's Bay Naval Submarine Base, where we were treated to several large "booms," probably part of some unknown testing. A word to the wise: if you decide to make this trip - or one like it - always check the tide charts before leaving. You don't want to be fighting the tide the whole six miles.
Cumberland Island National Seashore (image courtesy National Park Service)
Kayaking from Crooked River State Park to Cumberland Island National Seashore
We were fortunate in our arrival at Plum Orchard. The mansion is only open for tours on the second and fourth Saturdays of the month, yet we were able to walk right up to the front door and ask to fill up our water bottles. The hosts were more than gracious and even gave us a mini-tour during our break. After our mini-tour, we hopped back into our kayaks and paddled north another six miles, along the Brickhill River towards Brickhill Bluff, one of the primitive campsites. The island has four primitive - no fires, no potable water, no facilities - and one ordinary campground.
When I say primitive, I mean it. Everything - and I do mean everything - for three days and two nights of camping, hiking, and kayaking had to fit within my 14 foot kayak. Once you land at Brickhill Bluff, you have to trudge through the salt marsh, scramble over thousands of small crabs - some with pinchers! - and find not only a spot to establish your campground and put up your tent, but a spot high enough so that your kayak doesn't float away during high tide. You have to hang your food from a high tree branch so that wild animals don't get into your food supply while sleeping or hiking. And there's no immediate help if you hurt yourself.
A small crab
Primitive campground
However, with that primitive campground comes some perks. Other than the friends I arrived with, I only ran into one park ranger and two island maintainers. It's peaceful and quiet at night. And dolphins wake you up at sunrise.
One of many friendly dolphins that woke us up each morning
My friends and I set out for a 12 mile hike on Saturday morning. We started by heading north along the simply named Main Road, and then west along trails until we reached Terrapin Point, which is one of the highest spots on Cumberland Island at a whopping 50 feet. We followed the trail north until it re-intersected the Main Road, and then east towards the Settlement. As you make your way towards the Atlantic Ocean on the east side of Cumberland Island, you'll pass a road that heads south towards High Point Cemetery. The cemetery has graves and headstones dating hundreds of years back, including many infants and small children that didn't make it due to poorer living conditions. This was an area we took a break, reflecting on how different life is for us a few hundred years later.
Continuing eastward, we walked along the banks of the salt marshes just to our left, where a large fire had recently ripped through the trees, leaving short, burnt black husks sticking out of the marshes. Eventually that scenery gives way to an unpaved, deep rutted sandy track with dense foliage overhead - perfect considering it was now a blistering 90F degrees out. The last stretch before reaching the Atlantic Ocean is comprised of short, 20-30 foot tall sand dunes. If you've ever spent time on the southern east coast, you'll understand just how unpleasant crossing even a half-mile of sandy dunes can be.
Unfortunately we had plans to visit Cumberland Island at the same time nearby Okefenokee Swamp was playing host to fires, covering much of the coastline in dense smog. The views extending from the beach were quite limited, and dismal. We made lunch on the beach, played in the cool waters of the Atlantic and then packed up, heading back towards the Roller Coaster Trail.
The Roller Coaster Trail started off under heavy foliage and along a simple, sandy trail. The trail quickly lost its cover and became ever increasingly tall Holocene (10,000 years ago to present) sand dunes, similar to our approach to the beach. We saw multiple trails left behind by snakes, who were most assuredly crossing the trail to get to the cooler side. The trail quickly lived up to its name, with hills rising and falling just often enough to remind you exactly which trail you were on.
Along the Roller Coaster Trail
Occasionally we would spot a wild horse - one of the many gems on Cumberland Island. Halfway along the Roller Coaster Trail towards the South Cut Trail resides Lake Whitney, a year-round lake. There are other bodies of water that dry up during the summertime, and essentially become inland salt mashes. Lake Whitney, not only lush with plants and water, happens to be a great spot to sight the wild horses cooling off. Of course, if you spotted them, they've spotted you, and they can be spooked quite easily.
Wild horses in Lake Whitney
Wild horses in salt marshes
One of the smaller lakes that turn to marsh during the summer
Even though only a mile or so south of Lake Whitney and the northern sand dunes, the Roller Coaster Trail - while still full of hills going up and down - turned to a much denser maritime forest, dominated by live oaks and palmettos. We heard warthogs digging in the distance and running away through the palmettos - most likely more scared of us than us of them - and came across several dig holes. When we encountered piles of dung left from the horses and warthogs, new life was springing forth both in the form of fungus and of dung beetles.
Mushrooms coming to life
The last leg of our trip we followed the South Cut Trail west towards the Main Road, and then followed the Main Road north back to the Brickhill Bluff campsite. We set out early Sunday morning, saying farewell to a great adventure. Cumberland Island is large, and considering that vehicular traffic is kept to a minimum, the northern part of the island sees even fewer visitors than the more popular - and site of the ferry landing - south tip. I feel privileged to have seen so much of such a wild, untouched place, and to be able to share that through words and pictures with you.
And of course, to address the most important, and first, question everyone always asks: would I do it again? Absolutely! Just not in the summer.
More information, including frequently asked questions about the island can be viewed here.