Valparaiso, Chile
Sunday Apr 29th
Off Valparaiso Harbor. Commenced very pleasant. In sight of land at sunrise. Found we were within twenty miles of Valparaiso Harbor. Set all drawing sails. Saw a volcano, probably one of the Andes. Ran within eight miles of the shore. Saw three ships ahead and four or five astern. Those ahead, off the mouth of the harbor under the lee of the land as though becalmed.
As we sailed along the land, we found the shore bold and rocky. Saw cattle feeding on the highlands. The breakers broke in on the rocky points in wild magnificence. As we neared the harbor which lay behind a high bluff of land, the wind decreased. On the high land was the telegraph house. On the most outer point of land was what they call the lighthouse giving about as much light as a common candle.
We soon came along side of a vessel and was becalmed. A thick fog came from the land and shut out everything but the vessel from our view. We spoke her and found her to be the Montreal, 92 days from Boston with 16 passengers. Lost one on the passage, a Sandwich Islander. He told us that the report in Boston was that we was demasted. All sorts of rumors were going the rounds.
About one PM the fog cleared away, and light breeze sprang up from the W. Found ourselves in Company with eight other vessels, all bound in. We dispatched a boat with four or five men to go ashore to speak for our water and provisions, etc. We were foremost in going in. Six proved to be American. The others English and French.
We rounded the point on which the light-house stood. Saw a number of men riding horseback over the hills. We soon came in sight of the city of Valparaiso. Far in the distance could be seen the snow caped Andes. In the rear of the city were very high and barren hills. The low smokey looking houses and the barren land in the rear made us think we were to enter into anything but a civilized city.
After getting up the harbor some ways, the wind left us, and we were forced to get out the boats and tow up before dropping our anchor.
Our boat came from ashore bringing news of the most satisfactory kind, that they had spoke for our water etc. and, what caused the greatest incitement among the men, that gold was found yet in the greatest abundance in California. Some were so fortunate as to find lumps weighing twenty five lbs. and that provisions, articles of clothing were selling at most exorbitant prices, that there still lay in this harbor who refused to give up her letters till she got a cargo.
About three we came to anchor. All hands were anxious to get ashore. Boats soon were along side with the Custom House Officer aboard, natives to take passengers ashore. We also found that the Panama was still lying in the harbor and would sail the next day for Panama and would carry the mail, but I had the bad fortune to miss sending but sent left in care of Vincent round the Horn.
All hands fixed up and went ashore. Went ashore in our boat. Found that there were no wharfs only a small pier where passengers landed. Found a great number of natives on the shore gazing at the Yankees.
After landing I winded my way up to a hotel near the landing called the Star kept by a Mr. Jones. Found that a number of our men had booked their names and that he was all full. On emerging we found that Sunday was their greatest holiday and particular this day as they had made an election of a new governor and that all the people had gathered on a hill back of city and were having a great feast. With one or two companions I strolled along towards that part of the city which was by the seashore.
All at once we met a great number of people horseback. We found that the feast was over. We kept on and soon found some of our men who had been to the feast. They had there jackets picked of their handkerchiefs etc. In the crowd some of the people were on horseback and some in carriages drawn by two horses, one of them rode by the driver. Men women and children on foot in any numbers.
As it was near dark we returned by another way to the hotel where we met with a number of our ship mates and got a super once more on shore. Yes, we were once more on terra firma eating a supper of steak, bacon and eggs etc. in the old fashioned way.
In the eve about fifty or more went to the theater which found to be a large and spacious building very much like ours at home. A party of us had the good fortune to have an American with us, a friend of one of the party, by the name of Vincent from Dorchester who had lived in the city about four years who acted as interpreter. The performance was grand although we understood not a word they said. Yet we could tell by their gestures etc. that it was a tragedy which proved to be so. There were a great number of children and English officers present which were dressed up in their military suits. The orchestra was excellent. Three large liquor rooms under the building where most of the audience retired to between the acts to eat and drink. Our men acted well and like men. They gazed upon us as strangers. The performance was ended at 12 o'clock. In Company with Mears we returned to the hotel where we stopped overnight.
I went with Baxter into a small room where we were accommodated with a bed about big enough for one man and hard as the floor. Others who were less fortunate put up on the floor.
Monday April 30th
In Valparaiso. All night we were disturbed by the sound of the watchman's cry and whistles of all is well, and some annoyance of bed bugs and flees (which all who stopped ashore were troubled with).
In the morning we sat down to breakfast with about a hundred Yankees, some of them from NZ, who arrived in other vessels, but most of them of the Edward Everett. We all eat with true Yankee fashion.
After breakfast went straying all over the city. Some got horses and rode out into the country. Friend Mears and myself took a stroll through the city over the hills back of the city to the lighthouse which is of wood. Square at its base and running up to a distance of about fifty feet. On the hills next to the light is the race ground and promenade. We started back toward the city taking another course down towards what is called the main top which we passed through with difficulty, the paths being very angling. We had to pass under the roofs of several of the houses which we found to be made of clay, the roofs of burnt clay. The inhabitants gazed upon us as strangers. Their fires were all outdoors, ovens etc.
Most of the houses in Valparaiso are made of clay. There are some very good houses. Some of the streets are paved and very good on engineering. We found that they had no rain for five months but they have very dews.
Since the news of the gold in California, a great number of the inhabitants had left. Before then, there were about seven women to one man. Now there were about twelve to one man. The women are very loose and without virtue. Soldiers paraded the streets or ? arms. They saw that the chain gang worked and were not disorderly. A great many Yankees, English, and Frenchmen, those only, appeared to be smart and enterprising.
In the afternoon two ships came into the harbor. Two or three left. There was about seventy vessels in the harbor: two Chilean men-of-war, one Englishman, the Asia. At night I was glad enough to get aboard being very tired. Most of the men stopped ashore.
Valparaizo, May 1st.
Commenced very fine weather went ashore in the first boat. Engaged a horse for the day. Paid one dollar. Took a ride into the country with Baxter, Phelps, Williams, and others. Rode along through the city leisurely. We passed through the north part by the seashore where we found the streets paved and and the houses much better than we had seen. As we were going out of the city, our horses began to gallop, the horses being trained not to gallop in the city, and trained to run very fast. We had very good horses.
We rode out about ten miles over the mountains overtaking several trains of mules loaded with fruits of all kinds, wood, etc. We overtook some of the N. Yorkers on horseback. We rode along , some times racing with each other and finally left some of our party behind. Baxter, one or two of the Yorkers, and I took the lead.
We finally stopped at a cabin at the foot of a hill where we waited till the rest of the party came up. We dismounted and went to the door, made signs for something to drink. The gave us some nectar, and vino, or native wine which they charged us a madaeo a glass. The rest of the Company came up making about fifteen of us.
We mounted after resting a little while and rode on about a mile to a sort of a stoping place or public house kept by an Englishman or a mongrel. We stopped here and got some grapes etc. Paid him a Real a piece, watered the horses, and rode on.
About a half mile further, leaving the Yorkers at hotel, we came to a house. In front was a large yard. A number of Spaniards sauntered lazily around. We drove in as it looked like a public house, fastened our horses. When we went toward the house a clever looking man well dressed came to the door. We saluted him with a bow and a tip of the hat. We passed through an entry where he made signs to go through to a garden which we did. There we found oranges, lemons, apples, grapes in abundance. After looking around we returned back to the house where we found some more of our men making in all our party twelve. The man then made signs to us to go into the garden again, speaking to his servants, and then came up with us made signs to us and talking in Spanish which we could understand that we might get some of the fruits grapes which were hanging on the vines in great abundance. After giving us showing his fruit, he showed us his potatoes etc. Then he invited us into his house where he had a table set with the most beautiful melons and grapes that I ever saw, beautiful white bread and new cheese, water in decanters.
We gave him to understand that we were Americans and bound for California in a ship when he seemed much pleased and said California gold and made sign that he understood. As we got up from the table, we offered to pay him which he refused and seemed to be affronted. We thanked him and bowed when seemed quite pleased. We mounted our steeds, tipped our hats to him, and galloped on congratulating each other on our happy visit on what we had seen.
We also saw in his garden flowers of all kinds. The rose bush in bloom, the pink geraniums, and all kinds that we see at home, and some of them grow spontaneous, that of the cactus in particular, which grow to a very large size on the mountains.
We drove on letting our horses go as they pleased. Some times they would run very fast, up hill especially. We met several trains of mules returning from market. The Spaniards were very civil and appeared much pleased when we tipped our hats to them. We reached the city about four in the afternoon, much pleased with our ride, but somewhat tired. Went aboard. Slept soundly all night.
Valparaiso, May 2d, 1849
Today at 2 PM is the time set for our departure, and I must improve the time to the best advantage. Last night the Mary and Adeline arrived after a passage from N. York of one hundred thirty six days. Experienced very bad weather. There are now over fifteen hundred Americans in Valparaiso, enough to take the city. The N.Yorkers are a boisterous set of fellows and will get into trouble before they leave the city. Had a fight last night at the Star among themselves. I was informed that the passengers on board the ship Orpheus, who now is port, has quarreled every time they have been out. The number aboard 210.
I went ashore in the second boat to take a look round the city and to buy some fruit etc. to carry aboard. A great deal of nuts and fruit were brought aboard during the day. I bought at the market apples, pears, etc. paying at the rate of $6 a barrel for fruit every thing was very high. Potatoes were seventy cents a bushel. Wood at $25 a cord and every thing in proportion and rising fast.
Went aboard at 1 PM. On nearing the vessel saw some military men on going aboard. Found they were Chilean officers who came to a visit by invitation of some of the men who visited them the day before, but was not aboard to receive them, nor anyone else excepting some men who were left aboard to do the work. The were dressed very finely. Mr. Tomber made all the excuse he could. The only one who could talk any Spanish. On examination of the case the men who invited them forgot the invitation and went off to ride not letting anyone know of the invitation. Apologies were tendered to the officers the next day.
At 2 PM the signal flag was hoisted. At four a gun was fired for all to be aboard at seven. Yet all hands were aboard. Business was executed. The Company bore a very good name in Valparaiso and most of them behaved like men considering all things. At 9 o'clock we sent up seven rockets, most beautiful ones. No wind that we could go out with.
We took passengers, one a Spaniard the other a Brazilian and about two tons of baggage or freight at one hundred and twenty dollars a piece. Luggage at twenty dollars a ton.
Valparaiso Harbor May 3rd
Waited all day in the harbor for a fair wind. The wind blew into the harbor all day. Sent a boat on shore to get a few necessary articles etc. Some of the men were anxious to get ashore, but they could not go. All were anxious to get away to sail. At 11 P.M. midnight all hands were called to weight anchor and set sail as there was a good land breeze (the bark Josephine also set sail who made three attempts to get out of the harbor in the course of the day. She had on board the N. York Mining Association.) All hands were eager to get off and worked with a good will. The wind was very light. Two boats were ordered to be got out with five men in each to tow. We got under weigh before the little bark.