I have replaced the coil burners, drip trays and oven elements in the 15 years my wife and I have owned our home. But this old machine and the exhaust hood needed to be replaced. I accepted the challenge and will walk you through my process.
Here are some of the reason for the change. Grime is behind the glass protecting the clock and timer.
“When you can’t read the settings and can’t get a new face panel, you must replace the unit” (my wife’s instructions and logic.) The new stove will be energy efficient where the old one was not.
Here are some of the harder considerations of this job. The countertop wrapped around the back of the stove. The new stove has a metal backsplash built in. I will have to cut the linoleum section out for the new installation.
The width of the old stove and new one are the same at 30 inches. The new stove is taller (because of a sliding front compartment) and slightly deeper (due to the design).
First and important step: I turned off the breakers to the units before beginning work. I double checked the wires with my circuit tester. I described this process in my last article (replacing the vent hood) so I’ll continue. Here is the link to my last diary: www.dailykos.com/...
Here I decided this article should be written in two parts. Why, one might ask?
I inspected the old wire and flexible conduit and found I could reuse both. I needed to install a box for the main wiring. Here is that process.
I used a piece of one inch wood to create a back-stop for the loose side of the panel. I fit the panel into the space using screws (in case of future repairs), then secured the panel.
I cleaned and filed the end of the flexible conduit and crimped eyes onto one end of the wires.
I reinserted the supply wires into the flexible conduit. I used a string to “fish” the bundle through the conduit. I was ready to wire the supply line to the stove.
I slipped a swivel connector over the supply line that had the eye connectors attached. That end connected to the stove. I wrapped the supply wires in electrical tape, at the ends of the flexible conduit, to prevent nicks from rubbing inside the conduit.
I chose to secure the conduit to the box cover (reducing the chance of future electrical mishaps). I drilled a hole (using a 13/16 inch paddle bit) that the conduit sleeve fit snugly in to. The loose wire ends will connect to the main power line with wire nuts before the box cover is attached.
Here’s a good question, “Why didn’t you install a plug to the supply wires and a receptacle to the main wire (in the box)? My response, “I am the Captain of my ship! Ashore ye mutineers.”
I’ll stop here with this post and pick up with the details of the stove installation next week.
Thanks for stopping by. Let’s get together again and finish this thing.
Until then, work smart not hard.