Good morning and welcome to Saturday Morning Garden Blogging where we’re known to wander off the garden paths by also including our animals, homes, travels and other interesting topics.
P and I returned home this past January from a month in the countries of Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, South Africa and Namibia. I took almost 4,000 photographs so I believe the best way to approach this is try a diary for each country, except today’s will cover two. The diaries will have photographs of plants and animals, of course, but will also include other interests to provide a real feel of the locations.
The trip from our house, outside of Hartford, CT to Johannesburg, South Africa took over forty hours. (Uber, train, subway, monorail, NYC flight to Frankfurt, ten hour layover, then on to Johannesburg). The first part of our journey after arriving in Africa was to have been a flight on to Zimbabwe but we decided that it was best to spend one night in Johannesburg to recuperate before continuing. We stayed adjacent to the airport in a remodeled extremely industrial styled hotel. The reception desks were cargo boxes. Very hip, very cool with even one of the swimming pools turned into a sitting area.
We left early the next morning for a flight into Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and were picked up by our hotel, Ilala Lodge, where we stayed for five days. Because we were staying at the closest lodge to the rainforest and Victoria Falls, we decided on an upper room with a balcony that we could use because of all the wildlife that ventures onto their grounds. This includes elephants and although rare, an occasional lion. The bottom photo is looking back from our balcony to the lodge’s restaurant and swimming pool on the upper deck.
We had barely arrived when we were then escorted to the old world charm of the Ra-Ikane for cocktails and a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River.
The river itself was full of hippopotamus as one is seen on shore and another one in the water. The week before we arrived, an American woman had been attacked by a hippo in the exact same location and barely survived. Hippos are considered the most dangerous terrestrial animal on the African continent and on average are responsible for the deaths of almost 3,000 humans every year.
The river’s shore was full of crocodiles, warthogs and elephants
This video provides a much better take than my photographs on the lodge, surrounding area including Victoria Falls and especially the hippos and the Zambia River boat cruise.
The next morning at our lodge, I saw this long creature with black and orange stripes. It was large and I couldn’t decide if it was a snake or some type of large worm. I kept back a safe distance and that is why I didn’t move leaves to provide a better view.
Banded Mongoose would quickly run through in groups of thirty or more and then leave just as quickly. They were eating some type of large black worms. This one thought I was going to take away his meal.
There was a constant presence of guards on the grounds, especially at night, because of the wildlife and to keep locals out. Zimbabwe is one of the poorest countries in the world. Their presidential election the previous month was disputed with violent riots in the streets and several deaths. With all the unrest, the U.S. State Department issued strong warnings to Americans traveling there. It was recommended to keep alert at all times and to avoid crowds. I know ….. P and I are adventurous travelers, maybe a tad unwise at times.
These two deer camped out across from our room every night. It was amazing how many birds would land on their backs, I assume eating ticks, and the deer didn’t mind them.
The next morning, we walked down to Victoria Falls Park, home of one of The Seven Natural Wonders of the World and our main reason for visiting. It was quite a feat to arrive to the park pass all the aggressive street vendors.
David Livingston, the Scottish missionary and explorer, was believed to be the first European to view Victoria Falls in November of 1855. The park was very creative in reusing tree stumps. The sign said the water was safe to drink but we had brought our own, thank you.
Our first glimpse of the falls. The park required you to stay on their trails and to avoid the wildlife.
It was hard to be at an angle to take in the entire falls. Notice the people on the right that have no railings to prevent a fall. Almost every year at least one person falls to their death.
In fact, almost the entire trail along the gorge had only these small one to two foot high fences to alert you to stay back from the rim. The gorge is the border between Zambia, formerly known as Northern Rhodesia and Zimbabwe, formerly Southern Rhodesia or just Rhodesia.
trash receptacle made from an old stump with the raised word “LITTER” carved on it
People on the Zambia side swimming along the edge. Be careful and not a statistic! These people paid around $110 each for a boat ride to this spot, Devils Swim, so they could jump in and have their photograph made at the edge of the falls.
There were all kinds of wildflowers growing in the park, none identifiable to me. The ones on the right were especially prolific
This grounds keeper said it was okay to take a photo of his broom but not him. The broom consists of tree branches tied together and they worked quite well.
At times, there were so many monkeys on the trail that you had to wait for them to move on. We had been warned that they would try to take your bags. This mother stayed behind to feed her baby. When we returned to the park entrance, we decided to take a break before walking back to the hotel. I was sitting on a log with others when someone screamed “snake”. It was right behind us. It was a thin green/yellowish snake, around 6 feet long, and I identified as possibly an Eastern Green Mamba. Some grounds keepers were trimming trees nearby and had probably disturbed it.
We wanted to avoid the vendors on the way back to our hotel so we crossed a railroad track and then walked down a dirt road. We happened upon the entrance road to a restaurant that the guide books had said was a must-see. The Lookout Cafe had great food and wine but it was all about the view! This view was from our table with the Victoria Falls Bridge in the background, a zip-line that ran right below us and a misting machine next to us. Another glass please …..
That night we went across the street to one of the country’s only casinos. It was a very strange place and even stranger that P and I both walked out winners.
The next morning, I took a few photos of plants around the grounds.
these trees were beautiful in full yellow bloom
This has to be the largest stag-horn fern that I have ever seen
The grounds people had a hard time keeping all of these yellow fruits picked up. I assumed that they were not edible as I didn’t see humans or animals eating them.
We decided to walk across the border into Zambia to spend the day.
We walked from our lodge to the bottom red circle being Zimbabwe customs and continued on to the top circle being Zambia customs. In-between was no man’s land and the Victoria Falls Bridge.
As we walked this in-between area, there was a long line of tractor trailer trucks parked on the side of the road. We had been informed that the wait can take up to three days for their trucks to get through Zambia customs as each is throughly checked for weapons and drugs. Many had cooking areas set up next to their trucks. I saw no bathrooms. We had been warned to not wear any type of camouflage clothing as it is strictly prohibited in Zambia.
This is the top of the famous Victoria Falls Bridge. Pedestrians to the right, trains in the middle and only one lane for vehicles on the left.
From the bridge, we could see the restaurant, Lookout Cafe, circled in red where we had lunch the previous day. The large white building to its left is the Victoria Falls Hotel, discussed further below. We watched Japanese tourists scream in terror as they bungee jumped off the side of the bridge. I screamed in horror just glancing over the side.
Once we went through Zambia’s customs, we hailed a taxi to take us for the twenty minute ride into the town of Livingston. This is the first president of Zambia, Kenneth David Buchizya Kaunda, from 1964 to 1991.
I am not sure how to describe our taxi driver or his cab. We had agreed on a set amount to take us to Livingston. His taxi seats had worn holes with stuffing coming out, my door had no handle or window opener. I’m not sure the interior had ever been dusted or vaccumed. He was wearing a coat although it was very hot and he had a bad cough. It was apparent that he was very sick. He said that he had been a safari guide but due to a lack of business, he had been let go. He was so proud of his town that he drove us all around showing the highlights without charging extra. The building below had been a colonial religious revival camp where people came from far distances. The locals still use it for worship services. He stopped so we could hear some beautiful music coming from a service.
a typical type of house that includes their business on one side
The only apartments/condos that we saw in this downtown area
The taxi driver dropped us off at the Livingston Museum. We’ll see him again later.
one of Livingston’s coats and hats
Original correspondences of Livingston’s are housed in these pull out slots. It was sad to think how easy it would be for someone to borrow them. I saw no security guards, alarms or cameras.
Livingston’s handwriting
Here is a page from one of Livingston’s notebooks showing some of his field measurements of Victoria Falls. The museum had many displays from the earliest history of the country right up to the present. I especially liked this photograph of a happy 1960s dancer wearing a mini-skirt.
When we left the museum, we walked about five blocks to a restaurant, Cafe Zambezi, that had been recommended by the museum’s receptionist. It was really good. (I had cooked vegetables and coffee) To our surprise the taxi driver had heard where we went and came in to see if we would need a ride back to the border. We said yes but to please join us first. He was very nervous about that as well as the restaurant staff. He wouldn’t sit with us but instead sat at an adjacent table as he kept nervously glancing at the staff. We told him to order a drink and a meal. He actually ordered several items in takeout boxes. We realized it was to be his dinner for that night, maybe to share with others. He drove us to the border (after we had to pull over to wait for elephants in the road). P gave him a good tip that brought him much joy. He actually got out of his car to keep all the vendors away from us so we could get inside of customs. We both still keep thinking about him. We only saw two other tourists, possibly German, while in Zambia. This photo is part of the restaurant’s entrance as I forgot to take one where we ate in the outside courtyard.
Once through customs, this guy insisted that we take his rickshaw down the hill to the Victoria Falls Bridge. For a couple of dollars, it was well worth it.
As we were going back through Zimbabwe’s customs, this lady kept us company along the fence. I believe she was an opportunist who knew I had raw almonds in my bag.
This entire African adventure was taken for several reasons including my retirement celebration but mainly for P’s milestone birthday. I had previously told him that I was not going to give him any presents but experiences instead. So the next day was the first of four experiences — a helicopter ride above Victoria Falls and the surrounding area.
P sat in the front with the pilot and I rode behind them next to a big empty plastic box labeled TIPS. We all had to wear headsets with microphones.
This was their wet season but due to climate change, it was extremely dry. You can see how little water was coming over the falls from the river as normally the falls are almost a mile long. Locals were very apologetic and noticeably worried but it did not diminish our visit in any way.
This is how the falls should have looked
The red circle was our hotel’s location. The Victoria Falls Bridge is on the left.
The deep gorge zigzagged as far as the eye could see and it’s amazing that it is the border between the two countries. It was caused by an earthquake at least 100,000 years ago.
After returning to earth, the driver of the helicopter transportation van taking us back to Victoria Falls made a detour per our request so we could see the famous Baobab Tree. The tree is between 1,000 to 1,500 years old and the largest tree in Zimbabwe.
I had planned on hugging it but it was fenced off.
The reason for the fencing — people carving their names and taking pieces of bark as souvenirs.
Later that afternoon, P treated me to a retirement “high tea” at the Victoria Falls Hotel
The 1904 hotel was “over the top” authentic British Colonial period. It was like I had walked into a movie set. I could do a diary on just its hallways and dining rooms.
These framed antique herbariums were everywhere.
This is the hotel’s back side where we sat on the terrace.
my first “high tea” was great, even the cucumber finger sandwiches!
the view from the terrace with the Victoria Falls Bridge in the center background
We didn’t make it to Cairo but we later did to Cape Town. Even this very upscale hotel had warthogs on their grounds and monkeys on their roof. Elephants sometimes walk down the Main Street. It was interesting to see all the warthogs get down on their front knees to say their prayers before eating.
a beautiful flower on the walk back to our hotel
the next morning we had an early breakfast with “the smoke that thunders“ as we prepared to leave for the next part of our trip.
Everyone had been extremely nice including this African Southern Ground Horn Bill. They all wished us safe travels and to please come back again to visit
Our transfer van drove us about sixty miles to the Botswana border to meet our next transfer. Other than elephants crossing the road, it was an uneventful drive until we arrived at the border. We were required to exit the van and walk with our shoes on through a large trough containing an unknown liquid. I am sure it was to prevent some type of disease or something being carried across the border on our shoes. We never understood it from the custom official’s muffled mumblings.
Customs went quickly and then we were met by our next transfer van to continue our journey. My eyes were wide open as I thought about what was coming next.
to be continued ………..