Good morning and welcome!
I enjoyed traveling vicariously through Missys Brother’s Africa posts so much that I wanted to share our May 2019 Bali vacation. Mimer’s recent comment, “it is good to remember other times and other places — happy places we can visit in our memories and in our photos” inspired me to finally write this. Additionally, the Washington Post wrote an article this week, “Go ahead and post your old travel photos. Experts say it can improve your mood.”
I chose Bali as a vacation last May because several friends raved about the natural beauty, fabulous food, welcoming people, monkeys, and amazing architecture. For my husband’s first trip to Asia, I wanted to pick a relaxing location without a language barrier so that he would be agreeable to a longer trip to Southeast Asia. We took a direct flight to Singapore from San Francisco (about 17 hours) and spent a couple of nights to acclimate and explore before continuing to Bali. The flight to Bali from Singapore is about 2.5 hours.
We chose to stay at the Hyatt Regency Sanur during their soft opening because it was one of the best travel deals I have ever seen. After doing more research, I was glad we chose Sanur because the traffic on the southwest side of the island is terrible. Although Ubud is highly recommended, we wanted to stay by the ocean.
Each day, we relished the garden walks around the hotel. Our guide, Punca, informed us that gardens are a part of Balinese Hinduism and that each home has a temple and garden. Traveling around the country, I noticed numerous garden centers and statuary.
The above “cave” at our hotel pool seems inspired by Goa Gajah also known as Elephant Cave Temple. Goa Gajah is a Hindu-Buddhist temple near Ubud that dates back to the 11th century.
More red bird-of-paradise (below left) which I think map’s cats have in their front yard?
My husband took pictures during a sunrise walk each morning. A pack of dogs usually woke me during the night so I tried to sleep in and have coffee before joining him. Dogs roam Bali similar to outdoor cats with free rein. Many have collars even though they seem to be street dogs.
Taking a closer look, we see that the statues are wearing clothes.
When an object is wearing this cloth, it means that a spirit resides within. The cloth keeps the spirit and its energy inside and also protects the people from being disturbed by the spirit.
This textile is called saput poleng. Saput means ‘blanket’ and poleng means ‘in two tones’. In the cloth there is an equal number of alternating black and white squares. Together they symbolize the coexistence of opposites and the ultimate goal of harmony.
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We enjoyed exploring the neighborhood around our hotel.
Gates are considered sacred in Balinese culture. They act as portals that connect the physical world and the spiritual realm (gods and spirits); the living and the dead (ancestors). There are two common types of gates:
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Candi bentar: split-gate traditionally built as a formal entrance to a pura (temple) or puri (palace).
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Paduraksa: intricately carved gate (with a tiled or thatched roof) which serves as entryway to a family compound.
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During our ocean side walk, we tried numerous times to visit the Le Mayeur Museum. Unfortunately the hours of operation were merely a suggestion as the museum was not open when we tried on various days to visit.
After all that walking, we worked up an appetite. I don’t know why we don’t have more Indonesian restaurants in the US because the food is phenomenal. We ordered a two person dinner which was like a massive, private buffet. Our favorites were the fish and Rendang beef. After this vacation, we learned to make Rendang beef in the instapot with these spices: www.asianhomegourmet.com/...
Each evening we would sit in the lounge and enjoy Balinese music. It looked like the musicians were using a bamboo xylophone.
If you have not heard Balinese music, this is an example
Canang sari is one of the daily offerings made by Balinese Hindus to thank the Sang Hyang Widhi. Canang sari is offered at Balinese temples (pura), on small shrines, on the ground (i.e. in front of shops so be careful walking), or as a part of a larger offering.
Scooters are the main form of transportation. Bali roads are sometimes narrow, traffic can be intense, some tourist sites are not clearly marked, not all roads are lit at night, and we saw tourists on crutches with abrasions. Hiring an experienced Balinese driver is not expensive and they can monitor traffic to determine the best way to get around the island.
I was impressed with the ability of the locals to operate scooters while balancing baskets on their heads and wearing a sarong.
Masks — I have seen masks year-round in many situations while traveling in Asia. I think the woman in the above photo looks like an intelligent person who does not want to inhale insects and particulate matter while on a scooter.
I am embarrassed to say that we tip not tip enough when we first arrived. It was hard to grasp the difference in conversions when I was jet-lagged. While tipping is not required, it is still appreciated. We put together a cheat sheet to help. As you can see, 20,000 Rupiah ($1.39) is not much money and tipping 100K or more is far more appropriate. When shopping, most items such as sarongs, purses, totes, and some wooden handicrafts cost around $20 or about a quarter of a million Rupiah.
There are an overwhelming number of Bali tour operators. When I do not have a trusted recommendation for a guide, I use www.viator.com. I think they do a good job vetting tour operators and quickly provide refunds when something goes wrong. Before we even arrived in Bali, I was impressed with the tour operator, Hire Bali Driver, that I booked through Viator. My questions about revising the suggested itineraries received a quick and insightful response. We were able to optimize our time and plan a vacation we will remember forever based on their expert guidance.
We took a tour similar to this our first full day on the island — Ubud and Volcano Private Tour with Lunch
This was the original itinerary for our first day:
“’The journey will begin early in the morning from your hotel in Bali to visit the Ubud monkey forest, next we have a small walk to the traditional market and we can see Ubud king palace just in the front of traditional market. Then, we head to Ubud rice terrace to see the rice paddy surrounded by the jungle. After that, we drive to the volcano to see a magnificent view of Mount Batur and the lake. You can have a buffet lunch at the traditional restaurant just in front of the volcano. After that, we stop at the coffee plantation on the way to water spring temple. At the water spring temple you can do a holy blessing together with the local community or just have a look at the local people ritual.”
I requested that we eliminate the trip to the coffee plantation and allow more time at the Ubud market and visit a waterfall. Bali is known for its expensive kopi luwak coffee. This coffee consists of partially digested coffee cherries, which have been eaten and defecated by the Asian palm civet. Producers of the coffee beans argue that the process improves coffee through two mechanisms, selection – civets choosing to eat only certain cherries – and digestion – biological or chemical mechanisms in the animal's digestive tract altering the composition of the coffee cherries. Due to demand, wild luwaks (palm civets) are being poached and caged in terrible conditions all over South East Asia. These poor cats are then force fed coffee cherries to produce commercially viable quantities of the coffee beans in their poo (www.theguardian.com/...).
When I first starting thinking about a vacation for 2019, I decided I wanted to go somewhere with monkeys. I don’t know why this became a priority. On the morning of our first full day in Bali, we visited the Monkey Forest.
Can you find the monkeys in the picture below?
This one is easier. Do you see the monkeys?
Many tourists like close encounters with the monkeys. We did not choose to do this ourselves but it was interesting to observe.
Guidelines are provided on how best to interact with monkeys. We kept a respectful social distance and tried to avoid direct eye contact.
We stopped by the Blanco Museum which was ok.
www.lonelyplanet.com/.…
Spending time with our accommodating guide, Punca, gave us a great appreciation of the culture, the temples, and the natural beauty of the island. His insight while driving around was an opportunity to learn more about Bali. Punca explained haggling at the markets to my husband, arranged sarongs for us when needed at temples, and made sure we had a picturesque view at lunch.
Shopping is everywhere in Bali — there are markets at the exit of many temples, shops surrounding key tourist or cultural sites, and hawkers lined up along beach walks. Bali is known for its wood and stone carvings, jewelry, textiles, baskets, leather goods, and furniture. Balinese artistic expertise has been passed from one generation to the next for centuries.
Many paintings available in the tourist areas are mass produced and it can take some effort to find a unique original.
I learned that Balinese jewelry is often influenced by the natural landscape and heritage. The jewelry designs include patterns inspired by crocodile skin, dragons, and plaster walls.
Before I travel to a new country, I like to research the types of handicrafts I will see. Novica is one site that gives me an opportunity to explore a country’s artistic offerings and is a good option if I decide there is something I want after I return.
There are a wide variety of unique fabrics available in Bali. Sarongs were provided at the temples we visited so there was no need to feel pressured into buying one by the hawkers.
The best clothes we bought were from a tailor shop. It takes about 2-3 days to have a shirt made and there are also ready-to-wear items available. I bought a couple of blouses from a hawker that fell apart in the washing machine.
Bali's central mountains include several peaks over 2,000 meters (6,600 feet) in elevation and active volcanoes such as Mount Batur. The highest is Mount Agung (3,031 m, 9,944 ft), known as the "mother mountain", which is an active volcano rated as one of the world's most likely sites for a massive eruption within the next 100 years.
For over a thousand years, Balinese Hindu worshipers have been drawn to Pura Tirta Empul (Holy Water Temple), whose sacred springs are said to have been created by The God Indra and possess curative properties. During his June 2017 holiday in Bali, US President Barack Obama, Michelle Obama and daughters Malia and Natasha, made Tirta Empul one of their selected sites to visit and experience.
www.indonesia.travel/…
As soon as you enter the temple, you will walk through the large stone Balinese gate (Candi Bentar) and arrive in the outer courtyard of the temple.
Entering the inner courtyard, you will arrive at the 'Jaba Tengah' area which is the main area of the temple. The holy springs here bubble up into a large, crystal-clear pool within the temple and gush out through 30 waterspouts into the two sacred purification pools. Local Balinese and Hindu worshippers stand in long lines in the pools waiting to dip their heads under the water spouts in a purification ritual known as 'melukat'. Bathers start in the pool on the left side standing in the pool up to their waist under the first water spout. Once they have cleansed themselves under the first spout they join the next queue. This process is continued until they have cleansed themselves under each waterspout.
We were able to stop by a waterfall while touring central Bali. Many of the best waterfalls involve some hiking or setting aside a day to explore multiple waterfalls.
On our second full day, we took the following tour:
The cultural landscape of Bali consists of five rice terraces and their water temples. The temples are the focus of a cooperative water management system of canals and dams, known as
subak that dates back to the 9th century.
The subak system reflects the Balinese wisdom of maintaining three mutual relationships with God, people, and nature to create a sustainable cycle that maintains life on the island. All subak members abide by the same rules with each allotted work in relation to the amount of water received. Subaks help the small agriculturalists by assuring them of water, guarding irrigation channels against strangers diverting the water for their own use, and repairing any damage. The Balinese are the most efficient rice growers in the archipelago as a result of this cooperation among neighboring farmers. Before the fields are planted, offerings are made to gain goodwill of deities who provide water and favorable conditions for a successful harvest.
The headwaters in the island's irrigations system are lake temples dedicated to the goddess of the water, Ida Bethari Danu (
Pura Ulun Danu Bratan and
Pura Ulun Danu Batur). The Balinese believe that water is a divine gift.
April to October is the best time to visit Bali as there is little rain, low humidity, and lots of sun. It is still a good idea to have an umbrella handy in the drier season since rain is possible.
At the furthest point of my walk around Jatiluwih, I developed 'Bali Belly' (upset stomach/travelers' diarrhea). I knew my coffee or cream seemed a bit off but I just needed something to perk up.
Sometimes, I am more adventurous than my stomach. In an attempt to be proactive, I took two tablets of Pepto-Bismol four times a day one week before my vacation as well as during our stay. I was careful to observe the fact that Pepto-Bismol should not be taken for more than three weeks. My husband chose not to take Pepto because he has a stronger stomach and does not care for the black tongue side effect. I am only sharing this brief, special moment as part of thorough travel planning advice.
We stopped at Tegalalang Rice Terrace on the previous day which is where the famed large swings are available. I waited about 30 minutes to enjoy this childlike pleasure.
Ulun Danu Bratan Temple, located on Lake Bratan, was my husband’s favorite temple because of the whimsical art. Our guide indicated this is a popular temple to bring schoolchildren who can be seen laughing and playing.
Pura Ulun Danu was built in adoration of the Goddess Danu. Danu means lake in Balinese and the goddess Danu is queen of water, lakes and rivers. This is an important temple of water to worship since Lake Beratan is a main source of irrigation in central Bali.
The style of the building follows the Trimurti belief; three holy colors to represent the three gods: Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu. The first color is red, for the lord Brahma known as The Creator. Black is the symbol of the lord Vishnu, the balance and preserver of the universe. Finally, white represents the god Shiva, The Destroyer.
The area surrounding the temple is believed to have been a site of worship and center for religious rituals since the megalithic period. To the left of the temple lies a sarcophagus as well as a stone slate that are dated to around 500 BC. The existence of the temple itself is has been recorded as early as 1556. In 1633, it was rebuilt by the King of Mengwi, I Gusti Agung Putu, with a mixture of Hindu and Buddhist architectural styles.
Ulun Danu Temple is one of the icons of the island of Bali, and is pictured on the 50,000 rupiah bill.
www.indonesia.travel/...
The black thatched roof of temples seen throughout Bali is typically made from ijuk (black aren fibers), dried coconut, or rumbia leaves.
Luhur Batukaru Temple is located on the foothill of Mount Batukaru, the second highest volcano in Bali. This temple was built in 11th century and dedicated to the ancestors of Rajas of Tabanan. I adored this rain forest temple as I did not see any tourists and only heard the peaceful sounds of nature.
There is some traffic involved with visiting Tanah Lot and in the southwest part of the island. I am so glad our hotel was located on the southeast part of Bali. Our guide was a patient driver who monitored the traffic to determine the optimal route. We chose to leave Tanah Lot before sunset because we wanted to minimize the amount of time we spent sitting in traffic.
Tanah Lot temple was built to worship Bhatara Segara, or the Sea God. To protect the temple, with his mighty power, he created a poisonous snake from his sash. The sea snake is believed to be living at the base of this rocky island, to guard the temple from evil intruders.
www.indonesia.travel/...
We took a day or two to relax and enjoy Sanur before exploring the eastern part of Bali. Our hotel provided us a driver so we could follow an itinerary we devised.
Puri Agung Karangasem is the royal palace of the Karangasem kingdom in East Bali. The palace dates to the 19th century, during the reign of Anak Agung Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem. The palace is a silent witness to the span of Bali’s history – from the times of the Majapahit Empire to the refuge from Islam, the breaking down of Bali’s realms into 9 kingdoms, the Dutch occupation and its defeat, through to the formation and declaration of Indonesia’s independence.
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Taman Ujung Water Palace was built in 1909 by the King of Karangasem, I Gusti Bagus Jelantik, who holds Anak Agung Agung Ketut Karangasem Anglurah. It was destroyed almost entirely by the eruption of Mount Agung in 1963 and an earthquake in 1975.
au.hotels.com/...
The silhouettes of the trees below are just as eye-catching as the palace architecture. I think these are Norfolk Island Pines (Araucaria heterophylla).
Tirta Gangga is a former royal palace in eastern Bali, Indonesia. Named after the sacred river Ganges in Hinduism, it is noted for the Karangasem royal water palace, bathing pools and its Patirthan temple.[1] The one hectare complex was built in 1946 by the late King of Karangsem but was destroyed almost entirely by the eruption of nearby Mount Agung in 1963.[2]
Tirta Gangga is based on the beliefs in Balinese Hinduism, where river Ganges and its waters are considered sacred. Its waters are cherished for irrigation and agricultural abundance, recreation and economic activity.[3] The Patirthan temple illustrates the historic significance of Tirta Gangga in the Balinese tradition as a pilgrimage and holy water site.
At the lower level of the water source are 2 clear pools. One of them serves as a public wading pool and visitors are welcome to swim there.
The grand pond at the southern side of the complex is filled with large golden carp and other large fish, and swimming is prohibited. There are 2 bridges connecting the sides of the pond, which feature ornate mythical Balinese dragon statues.
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We decided to skip the Handara gates as we felt like we saw plenty of beautiful gates without having to travel at least 2 hours for a picture. I have mixed feelings about not visiting the Bali Museum (nowbali.co.id/...) and spending time in Denpasar. Maybe next time!
As we left Bali, we noticed a large statue in the distance at the airport. The 75 meter tall Garuda Wisnu Kencana (121 meters or 396 feet, including the concrete pedestal on which it rests) statue in Bali depicts Lord Vishnu riding on his vehicle, the mythical bird Garuda.
Lord Vishnu is known for being the “preserver” in Hindu mythology and he holds different objects that depict other meanings in his four hands. He holds a lotus flower, mace, conch, and discus. Garuda, the bird vehicle, is known to be a watchful protector and the mightiest of all birds.
For perspective, the Spring Temple in China is currently the world’s tallest statue at 502 feet and the Statue of Liberty stands at 305 feet in the US.
www.architecturaldigest.in/...
I need to pull back some of my ground cover and do a bit of weeding.