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As some here may know, I spent November and December on the Big Island of Hawai’i in the Hilo vicinity. A 3-week planned trip to visit my sister morphed into an unplanned — and incredibly enriching — 8-week stay. Extended time on the Big Island gave me an authentic sense of Hawaiian culture and place, particularly Hawaiians’ deep love of their ʻāina — “the land.” The word ‘āina literally means “that which feeds,” affirming the interdependence between Hawaiians and nature.
Oh, and that nature! You can’t help but feel its power and spiritual energy everywhere, whether it’s the crash of waves on lava sea cliffs, the trade wind procession of cumulus clouds, or the disquieting, looming mass of Mauna Loa, the largest active volcano on Earth.
In today’s bucket, I bring you Part 1 of the aloha ʻāina experienced during my stay. Today’s bucket focuses on the Big Island’s physical environment. Part 2 will delve into its flora and fauna.
Lua Pele (volcano)
As an acquaintance of my sister oft proclaims, “We live on an active volcano!!!” That’s obvious everywhere you look. The Big Island has 4 active “shield” volcanoes, huge expanses of solidified lava, and kīpukas — the green islands surrounded by old and recent lava flows.
Mauna Kea is a dormant volcano and the highest point in the state of Hawaii at 13,803 ft. The white dome atop the summit is the Mauna Kea Observatory. In the foreground is a 3,000-year old kīpuka of native ʻŌhiʻa lehua and Koa “wet” forest. Enlarge
At the time of my visit, Kīlauea Volcano was (and still is) actively erupting within the larger Halemaʻumaʻu crater. The crater and caldera are riddled with active steam vents, some of which emit dangerously high amounts of sulfur dioxide gas. The landscape was an awesome reminder that primordial forces are still, relentlessly at work on the Big Island.
Heat rising from the Kīlauea eruption creates its own weather. Enlarge
View into the Kīlauea caldera from the Keanakako’i Overlook — daytime. Enlarge
Same overlook, but a more dramatic view after dark. Enlarge
Heat cloud over Kīlauea eruption after dark. Enlarge
View looking south from Chain of Craters Road in Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. Two types of lava formations are seen in the foreground. The smooth, billowy, ropey form is called pāhoehoe (pronounced ‘paw ho-ey ho-ey’). The darker, more rough and jagged form is called ʻaʻā (pronounced ‘ah ah’). Enlarge
Pu’uloa Petroglyphs is the largest petroglyph site in Hawai’i. Images represent human forms, animals, and canoes. Pu’uloa is a sacred site for many native Hawaiians, past, present, and future. Enlarge
This native ʻōhiʻa lehua tree survived a 1974 incursion of lava in Hawai’i Volcanoes Nat’l Park. Enlarge
New land and a black sand beach created by the 2018 lower Puna eruption. A 6.9 earthquake triggered lava flows from 24 fissures, forcing 2,000 residents to evacuate and destroying 533 homes. Enlarge
A close-up of new Puna lava shows beautiful opalescence. Enlarge
Most of the Big Island’s shoreline is formed of lava rock, making conditions dangerous for swimming, snorkeling, and surfing. Best to fish or spectate from atop a lava cliff. Enlarge
Lani (sky) and AO (Clouds)
The Big Island’s skies, clouds, and weather phenomena were mesmerizing. I could have watched this beauty unfold all day….
A blazing sunrise at Pele’s Perch. Enlarge
A splendid sunset at Pele’s Perch. Enlarge
Puffy trade wind cumulus clouds are named aopua'a (ao = cloud + pua’a = pig). Their repetitive form reminded Hawaiians of a mother pig with a train of piglets. Enlarge
Ever heard of the “green flash”? It’s a rare optical phenomenon seen at sunset when the sun is almost entirely below the horizon. The barest upper edge of the sun will appear green for a split second just before it sinks from view. This green flash was captured by my sis at Kikio Beach, ~10 mi. north of Kona. Enlarge
Crepuscular rays radiate from the horizon after sunset at Kikio Beach. Enlarge
Mahina (moon)
Native Hawaiians have a name for each day of the lunar cycle. This is unsurprising given they descended from Polynesian wayfinders — people who navigated great distances with astonishing precision using only the moon, stars, wind, and ocean currents to guide them.
Moon phases and fishing chart at Maku’u Point, ~10 miles SE of Hilo. Enlarge
December’s “full cold moon” rising from the moana (distant sea). Enlarge
Full “warm” Hawaiian mahina. Enlarge
Something I’d never seen before (and could barely believe my eyes) — what I believe is a “moonbow” phenomenon caused by the refraction of light in water droplets. Enlarge
Kai (nearshore sea)
My sis and I spent hours at an overlook we named Pele’s Perch, less than a mile’s bike ride from her home SE of Hilo. We often spotted Green Sea Turtles, mysterious large fish, and seabirds in the nearshore surf. One day we saw the spouts of what we guessed were Humpback Whales a mile out. Most often, we just watched the beautiful aquamarine waves roll in and crash on the lava cliffs, misting us with salt spray and rainbows.
The aquamarine and deep blue colors of the Big Island ocean were meditative and mesmerizing. Enlarge
The Hilo and Puna districts lie on the windward (east) side of the Big Island, the rainy side on all Hawaiian islands. ~140 inches of annual rainfall makes these districts amazingly lush and tropical. Enlarge
My sis, sharing aloha with her ʻāina. Enlarge
In Part 2, I’ll cover the flora and fauna of the Big Island, but will reserve most of the bird photos for a Dawn Chorus in a few weeks.
Mahalo for joining today’s bucket!
Please share what’s happening in your ʻāina.