A year ago I stayed on Little Cayman for two weeks for our annual scuba diving trip and liked it so much we went back this year. We dive in the morning and then have time to do what we want in the afternoon. I liked to walk down the road to a lookout where you can see birds in a brackish pond. I wrote up my observations of birding at the island as a Dawn Chorus last year ( www.dailykos.com/… ). Our return trip was excellent again...diving, birdwatching, kicking back in the tropical warmth. However the weather this year created different conditions, and I can now compare the effects of that — which might also be a glimpse into the future of this little island as Global Warming is predicted to shift the climate of the Caribbean toward this kind of weather.
Little Cayman is a 1 mile by 10 mile low-lying speck of coral limestone between Grand Cayman and Cuba, surrounded on both sides by waters that plunge thousands of feet down. That makes for great diving, and since some of the island is protected by the Cayman National Trust, the wildlife both above and below the surface is diverse and abundant. The ponds we walk to in the afternoon are shallow and tidal, mixing with whatever rain has recently fallen. The depth and salinity vary tremendously. But in the vast expanse of open sea, an island pond is a welcome habitat both for resident birds and migratory ones passing through.
Part I
This year was extremely dry according to all the locals, and that was evident in the wetlands, which varied from shallow to completely dry. Wetland birds, who rely on a dependable supply of aquatic food were few or absent this year.
The stars of the ponds this year were the Black-necked Stilts, who are resident and gregarious. I take zillions of Stilt photos because they seem to be doing different things all the time and so spectacularly. Here are a few I pared down from the many.
The Stilt population was about the same, although we did not see any nesting, even though we were there at exactly the same time of year. That was a peak observation last year. Other species that were similar: one Green Heron, a few Blue-winged Teals, a few Whistling Ducks, several Common Gallinules. There were fewer egrets — Great, Snowy and Cattle — and fewer of the other herons — Tricolored, Blue. I attribute that to the lack of wading habitat. Almost every pond on the island was dry. No Yellow-crowned Night Heron, although might be because we were staying at a less hermit-crab-packed part of the resort.
There were also fewer Barn Swallows and terrestrial birds in general. No parrots. The Elaenias were common as before, as were doves and grackles but I saw no Kingbirds or Bananaquits. The latter were congregating on flowering shrubs last year but there weren’t as many flowers this time in general. I did see a Black and White Warbler once, a life bird! but didn’t have my camera with me.
Magnificent Frigatebirds and Red-footed Boobies were just as common as before, and both nesting right now. I didn’t get any close views of them because the weather was rough and I didn’t want to take my good camera out on the dive boat to get knocked around or wet. So, aren’t you glad I took those nice pics last year when I could? lol
Part II
Another comparison I can make that may be edifying, and possibly entertaining, is an account of what may be the worst nature tour I’ve ever had, contrasted with a superlative one, both visiting the same locations. First, why was I going on a tour on such a small island? Birds. And the fact that I have no transportation on Little Cayman besides traveling on foot, which is not a lot of fun in the tropical heat and humidity, with bugs and all.
Last year, one of the dive guides, who is also an expert about reptiles, having worked on the native Cayman Rock Iguana project, took a few of us divers out in the van to see birds not visible from the dive boat. We stopped at several ponds, and a few other spots where he knew birds would be found. That’s where I saw the cloud of bananaquits feasting on the ripe flowering stalk of the native Cayman agave, right by the side of the road. He also took us down a side road where he knew of a few booby nests. We stood below them admiring the fluffy white nestling, the fledgling trying out its wings, and the parents with their red feet perched nearby. We visited another pond with three kinds of egrets. Along the way, Mikey described the migration patterns of regular visitors, the birds who come through occasionally (like hummingbirds), how the geology and climate affects wildlife, the historical uses of the island and critical conservation issues. Mikey had lots to share and did so entertainingly. It was fun and memorable.
This year, one of the guests was a long-time career biologist of the US Dept of Interior, a bird expert, who had spent decades surveying and managing projects on public land. He and his wife have been visiting Little Cayman for decades, at least once a year, and knew it at all seasons. One of the divers persuaded him to give us a tour of the island birds. I was a little hesistant since I’d been out diving for five hours and really needed to lie down for a rest: I have a degenerative spinal condition that gives me severe pain if I’m up for too long, and I was accustomed to having a rest after diving. But — birds! And I was told it would be a quick trip to a couple of ponds, so figured I’d be back before it was a problem.
Our first stop was the pond across the road where we’d been visiting most afternoons both this year and last, a good spot for wading birds. He said we'd see stilts on the right (we did), and some rare West Indian Whistling ducks on the left. No ducks though. Well, he said, they were there yesterday. I asked a couple of questions about the stilts and he answered in monosyllables. Nothing I didn’t know already. Hmm. Well, I figured he was planning on a brilliant exposition in the van on the way. We all piled back in van.
The second stop was at the Booby pond, so-called because that’s where the Red-footed Boobies can be seen nesting in the trees. He and wife exclaimed over how dry the pond was. He pointed out boobies and frigatebirds way off across the dry pond, but didn’t seem to know about the spot nearby where they nest, for a better view. He told the story about frigatebird kleptopasaritism but exaggerated (for effect?) or perhaps he didn't know that frigates don’t get most of their food that way. I’ve read studies that measured it at 15-20%. Now I was getting dubious about this guy. Folks started wandering through nature trust building looking at exhibits since he had no more to say, and the birds were few.
We piled back in the van. I debated whether I wanted to keep going since my back was getting uncomfortable, but birds! And at this point I was stuck, it was way too hot to walk back to the resort and I didn’t want to make a scene. So I committed to the rest of the tour, hoping to learn something. At the very least I was hoping to get a ride to birdy spots, which was otherwise not possible, being carless. We drove past another couple of ponds, with Mr Bird Expert and his wife again marveling over their dryness. In a normal year you'd see egrets, and herons and shorebirds, they said, but there was nothing to see but emptiness now. I asked What’s the next stop? No answer. I began to feel trapped in this van with half dozen polite passengers making appreciative noises. The expert’s wife began providing a running travelogue about the island, like here are some businesses who started selling trinkets, but we’re not going to stop. Feeling a bit desperate, I asked again as we drove on and on, What’s the next stop?? Oh, the bird expert says finally, we're going around the island. Wha?! That would be another hour at least! Arghh. He keeps driving. The side of the road is endless low tropical shrubbery on both sides. At one point he exclaims there’s a kingbird, or maybe a kingfisher? But we kept driving onward. Meanwhile I’d been checking out the van and saw an empty seat in the back. At the next bird announcement, a possible ani, I suggested we stop and get out. It looked a lot like a grackle to me, and his wife said so too, but it didn’t matter: it was an opportunity for me. Everyone piled out and of course the bird flew off, but it gave me the pretext to crawl into the back where I instantly lay down flat. Ah, not so bad. I could endure now. Even finding some crazy humor in this "tour".
We drove on and on. I half listened to his wife’s travelog. The expert said nothing except This is where we’d see this bird if it wasn’t so dry, and this is where we’d see that bird if it wasn’t so dry. All I could see was shrubbery, from my position, bouncing along the semi-paved road.
Half hour goes by, we’re still bumping along, all the way down to the far end of the island, 10 miles away. By this time there’s some desultory coversation about stopping at a beach. Please oh please lets not make this longer! Relief, the decision is made not to, we might get stuck in sand. Whew. We continue driving, on and on, by this time around the back of the island. Eventually we get to the next birding stop, which is a couple of miles west of the resort (we could have turned back from the Booby pond and been there 45 minutes earlier, but hey, what do I know. I’d visited this pond last year with Mikey (from whom I learned more from in 20 minutes than this guy over the past hour). I pile out with the rest of the group, and a few linger at the door of the bar there. No! Let’s go see the birds, expert says. We troop out to the viewing spot and...no birds…...not a single one.
Well, the expert says, there are usually birds here. At least there were bird tracks? We craned over the railing looking down at the mud. Yep, a couple trails of tracks - egrets maybe? He wasnt sure. I take pics.
Finally we get back to the resort and pile out. Everyone thanked him for being SO informative and generous with his time. Cough cough. Gratefully I flopped down on my bed to cool off and laughed hysterically, pondering on the nature of good vs bad tour guides.
A good tour guide needs to be prepared: check out sites first, and plan a route to maximize what can be seen. A good tour guide chooses the right time of day, and for birds the heat of midday is not the best time. A good tour guide is also proactive in presenting information, piqueing curiosity, anticipating cool finds, filling the spaces in between with interesting patter. Mr Bird Expert might have knowledge, but that isn’t enough.
The tour wasn’t a complete waste of time. At one spot we pulled over and there actually was an ani perched in a tree munching berries. I sat up and pointed my camera out the window for one photo before it flew off.
Two nights before we departed Little Cayman a big thunder and lightning storm rolled over us, pouring buckets of rain. The ponds filled up overnight. Interestingly, our usual pond walking visit revealed a full but empty wetland. It was too deep for the stilts, and the other wading birds were long gone. Where do wetland birds go when their wetlands dry up and it’s 80 miles to the next piece of land?
Two more Cayman birds, waiting at the airstrip for our puddle-jumper to Grand Cayman and home.
Note #1: I will schedule this to post at the usual hour, and meet up with you when I awaken, a bit later.
Note #2: I’m having trouble with my iMac, can’t post photos, there’s a glitch in the DK programming, a ticket at the help desk a number of us have requested. I constructed this diary entirely on my iPad and ran short on time, so let me know of any errors/typos and I’ll edit later.
Thank you! Please share any of your observations of the week!