California is a land of superlatives - highest peak in the lower 48, lowest point in the lower 48, hottest recorded temperature, largest living trees, tallest living trees, oldest living trees, most designated Wilderness in the lower 48, and the list goes on. Even with more people living in California than in many of the western states combined, California is still rich with natural beauty and wide open places. This was not by accident. In the land of John Muir's greatest work it is no accident that California has a long and enduring conservation ethic. I love California and with no disrespect intended, I couldn't live anywhere else in America. I will post many more diaries about California so let's just start in one small sliver of the Golden State.
Question - What is the highest waterfall on the continent?
More down the trail...
Stornetta Public Lands
Along the Mendocino County coastline, just north of the town of Point Arena, is a wonderful recent acquisition into California's enviable public lands system - Stornetta Public Lands. Having recently discovered this lovely stretch of California's prized coastline we spent a couple of hours plying the winds and enjoying the surf and wildflowers. Do not forget your camera!
Journal Note: Vultures soar overhead. Sheryl struggles with the wind. Trail cuts both north and south. We head south. The ocean is magnificent.
Hiking Stornetta Public Lands
Having spent the last few days house hunting and lounging at Mar Vista Cottages we needed some time to wander the natural landscape. Our agent turned us on to this jewel and boy were we thrilled. Stornetta was not on any map and clearly is little visited.
The hike began in a small turnout on the way to the Point Arena Lighthouse. It was a gorgeous day of incredible blue skies and racing white clouds. As usual, the wind was brisk to say the least which is not uncommon for this part of the coast. The headland of Point Arena juts out into the pacific leaving little to stop the prevailing and persistent winds.
Stornetta Public Lands: What a View
Leaving the vehicle we cut through a small row of cypress trees and immediately get hammered by head winds. I put my hand on my hat where it will stay off and on throughout the hike. The short grasses are thick with wild iris. It is hard to get close ups with the wind buffeting the grass but occasionally it dies down and I click off numerous shots. Insects are working the iris ensuring their continued success.
The day is spectacular. California's coastline is stunning with so many opportunities for adventure and solitude. Off in the distance we see a few clouds punctuating the clear blue skies. We stop to listen - waves crashing and birds singing fill the air. A Harrier flies over the grassland off in the distance.
Stornetta Public Lands: Western Iris
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Journal Note: A snake cruises the grass. Try to get iris shots. Couple of harbor seals bob in the surf. Small track from a coyote.
We wander the coastline taking our time. The amazing views and rugged coast is breathtakingly beautiful. It is not hard to see why California is so populated.
We approach a stand of gnarled and contorted pines that provide nice framing for a few images. What a perfect spot to pitch a tent and spend a couple of days. Sheryl notes the lichen growing from the branches of one of the pines that is swinging in the wind like an old grey beard. I peer over the edge of the bluff into the surf. It is not a particularly long drop but the surf would pound a person into a bloody pulp in short order. We find an old log and enjoy some trail mix.
We sit and watch numerous vultures soaring overhead and cruising just over the grass. Sometimes they are so close to the turf I wonder how they keep from hitting the ground. One swoops by so close to me that I can hear the rush of the wind in its feathers quite distinctly. Several vultures are circling just down the coastline in a circular cylindrical fashion. Very cool to watch. Sheryl pulls out her binocs and watches them at length. Two more swoop past as they look for their daily meal of carrion.
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Stornetta Public Lands: Meeting of Water and Land and Water
We approach a small swale along the edge of the bluff where a small stream pools near the edge and then spills gently onto the beach below. It is a very healthy riparian habitat - the stream is barely even visible upstream with so much overgrowth of grasses and other plants. We wander the stream for a bit and then I take some memorable shots. As I am shooting Sheryl notices some Brant geese down along the shores edge and a couple of Oystercatchers sporting their vibrant orange beaks.
Journal Note: Cypress trees in the distance are fantastic. Nice arch in one of the haystacks. Brown pelicans dive. We can see a patch of iris on a lonely haystack. How much longer will the iris be there?
A couple of hours have gone by and we are getting ready to wander back. We hang out a get a couple more wave shots and head for the trail head. The walk back is more fierce since the wind is at our face. What a special place this is. Californian's have a rich legacy of protected habitat and this is just a small sliver of what this great state has to offer.
Stornetta Public Lands: Looking for Grub
Bowling Ball Beach
Bowling Ball Beach is a very curious geological oddity. The turnout is located about three miles south of Point Arena in Schooner Gulch. It is an easy walk to the ocean. Watch out for poison oak growing along the trail!
Walking the beach here was fantastic. No humans and lots of sea life. It is also a great place for sea glass. Sheryl and I come back several times in the next five days so that she could get her fill of beach combing.
We approached the large bowling ball rocks. Some of the rocks are covered in green algae giving them the appearance of green hair on a massive head. If you want to shoot good photos you need to come here during low tide. Don't get trapped on the beach by rising tides! I take numerous shots. Next time we need to plan it to be here during sunset and low tide.
Note: If you visit Bowling Bowl Beach see if you can find the stone water wheels.
Working the Beach
Little Pleasures
Lone Scavenger
This took awhile to get, even with my Canon 100-400. The vulture was very aware of me so I had to creep up on it ever so slowly. This shot came just about the time it had enough of me.
On the Way to Bowling Ball Beach
Unknown Beach
Got Milk?
Sheep are used in The Sea Ranch to keep dried grasses down. It is an organic way to minimize fire risk without using herbicides. There were hundreds of sheep and lots of lambs.
Garden Iris, Blue Eyes Grass (Iris), and Mariposa Lily
Some gorgeous Dutch Iris (left) at the entrance to Mar Vista Cottages. What a wonderful place to stay. Free range chickens provide eggs to your cottage every morning and an organic garden in which you can harvest some fresh veggies. The fingerling potatoes were awesome with fresh garlic and chives. What a marvelous coastal gem!
The Mariposa lily (top right) is Calochortus tolmiei (Calochortus is derived from Greek and means beautiful grass). This species is common along the windy bluffs from California to Washington) and grows only tall enough to reach above the grass. Mariposa lilies are perennial herbs growing from bulb.
Journal Note: Chickens are beautiful. Amazing colors and curious birds. Went in the coup. Chickens come running. Eggs range from turquoise blue to brown. Can't wait for for breakfast.
View from Schooner Gulch Looking South
Struttin' Tom
Turkeys were everywhere during our short vacation. At times alone, and other times in large groups, the Toms would put on a real show for us. The turkey above must have thought I was a female due to the clicking of my camera. Every time he would start to relax his foliage I would click a shot and he would puff back up and strut around in front of me. It was amazing watching his head and neck fill with blood displaying intense color. I tried to be quiet but he had darn good hearing. Click, click, click.
Happy trails...