When we last saw our hero he had just arrived in the city of Cochabamba, Bolivia. It was there that things began to go awry.
Bolivia has never been the most stable of countries. In fact, there have been over 190 coups since independence in 1825. On the other hand the period from 2005 to 2019 was relatively stable under the presidential administrations of Evo Morales, a former coca farmer who championed indigenous rights and socialism. Morales governed via a bit of a personality cult. In fact, we saw a mural in Cochabamba which pictured Morales with Hugo Chavez (of Venezuela) and Che Guevara.
Despite being term-limited Morales ran again in 2019 and was re-elected. However, the Bolivian Supreme Court ruled he couldn’t be sworn in, so Morales reluctantly passed on the presidency to his vice-president Luis Arce. However, Morales was not really happy with the supreme court ruling. While we were in Cochabamba, he was leading a march of his followers on the capital with the intent of getting the Supreme Court ruling overturned. That march was going to block the main road from Cochabamba to La Paz. Additionally, his supporters threated to blockade ALL accesses to La Paz including from the airport.
And that’s where it gets dicey for your intrepid hero and his friends. Here’s a reminder of our tour route:
After three days of birding in Cochabamba, our next stop would be La Paz, the Bolivian capital, and then onward to Lake Titicaca. The plan was that our birding guide, Dan Lane, and the two birders (including me) would fly to La Paz while our driver, Carlos, would drive from Cochabamba to La Paz in the van with all of our luggage and support gear. That would avoid a long dusty van ride for the birders and make sure all of our gear got to La Paz. That plan was at risk thanks to Morales.
So it was uncertain whether any of us would be able to get to La Paz. There was even risk that we’d have to abandon our plans and drive back to Santa Cruz in order to leave Bolivia. So while we enjoyed a few days of birding in the mountains around Cochabamba, we kept an eye on the news and our Bolivian ground agent started investigating options. So stay tuned dear readers.
Now back to the birding…
Our first day around Cochabamba took us to an area in the mountains northeast of the city near Cerro Tunari. It took us on a transect that would take us through multiple habitats including dry mountain scrub, polylepis forest, and eventually reach the high puna habitat over 13,000 feet giving a great selection of Andean species.
We started with some more common species.
Torrent Ducks live in the fast moving mountain streams of the Andes. They’re found the entire length to South America from Venezuela to Tierra del Fuego. In fact, I’ve seen them in Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru as well as Bolivia. And in case you’re wondering, that’s the male on the right with the black-and-white head and the female on the left with the orange belly hiding in the shadows.
Another common species is Chiguanco Thrush:
Chiguanco Thrush ranges from Ecuador to northern Argentina. They’re found in city parks as well as open scrubland. This one is a lot browner than usual – they’re usually dark slaty grey or black – but I suspect it’s just the angle and the light.
And here’s a species that has an even larger range:
Band-tailed Pigeons breed from southern British Columbia all the way to Northern Argentina! However, the subspecies in Central and South America is different from the North American subspecies.
Some of the specialties of the dry scrub area are hummingbirds. One of the main targets of the tour was Red-tailed Comet:
This is a female. The male has a tail as long as his body. He’s got a bright green breast and a red back and tail. Here’s a pic from Cornell. We did see a male but he didn’t pose for pictures. Red-tailed Comet is limited to Bolivia and Argentina.
One hummer who did pose was this Wedge-tailed Hillstar:
Wedge-tailed Hillstar is found in a narrow elevational range from 2,600 to 4,000m (8,500 to 13,100 ft). It’s almost a Bolivian Endemic, but its range just barely extends into northern Argentina.
Another hillstar species we saw was this female White-sided Hillstar:
White-sided Hillstar is another hummingbird that’s restricted to high elevation. Its range is kind-of the flip side to that of Wedge-tailed Hillstar. It’s mostly found in Argentina and Chile and just barely extends into southern Bolivia. In fact, our guide Dan Lane had never seen one in Bolivia before.
More expected in the high elevation scrubland are funariids like this Streak-backed Canastero:
Streak-backed Canastero is found in high elevation scrub throughout the Andes. Some authorities (but not Cornell/Clements) split it into two species with the southern subspecies in Bolivia being considered Puna Canastero.
Another furnariid in the scrub was Rock Earthcreeper:
Earthcreepers are large ovenbirds with big downcurved bills for probing in the dry rocky slopes. Rock Earthcreeper is restricted to southern Bolivia and northern Argentina. This trip was the first time I’d seen any earthcreepers, although this wasn’t my first earthcreeper of the trip. We’d seen Bolivian Earthcreeper earlier on the tour.
Yet another furnariid was Brown-capped Tit-spinetail:
This is yet another bird restricted to southern Bolivia and northern Argentina. As one might figure, tit-spinetails seem like a cross between a tit/chickadee and a spinetail. But while spinetails crawl up trees, tit-spinetails are found above the tree line, so while they look like a spinetail, they behave more like a tit.
As we headed up the road, we moved into the Polylepis forest. Polylepis is a high elevation shrub found in the high Andes. It’s actually in the rose family. It has red peeling bark and thick gnarled branches. Here’s an article with some pictures and more info on them.
A key species in the Polylepis is Giant Conebill:
You can see how it gets its name! Giant Conebill is a tanager, but it looks and behaves like a nuthatch. It crawls along the branches of the Polylepis and peels the bark looking for insects.
Some other things you see once you get to high elevations are sights that are typically associated with the Andes, such as llamas:
alpacas:
And indigenous women in hats and poofy skirts:
At least 60% of the Bolivian population have some percentage of indigenous heritage, mostly Quechua and Aymara. And for the record, llamas and alpacas are not wild animals. They’re domesticated versions of the vicuña and guanaco, respectively.
Eventually we got up to the high puna grassland, and yet another avian ecosystem. I don’t know how he saw them, but Carlos the eagle-eyed found a small group of Grey-breasted Seedsnipes:
Seedsnipes are a kind of shorebird, but unlike most shorebirds, they’re not found on the shore. They’re found on high elevation grasslands. They’re like the South American equivalent of ptarmigan. Grey-breasted Seedsnipes are found in the Andes from Peru all the way to Tierra del Fuego.
Way up on the puna, you can still find flycatchers, like this Cinereous Ground-tyrant:
Because there aren’t any trees up at 13,000 ft, the flycatchers mostly are found on the ground. But as you can see they’ll take advantage of any perch, like a fence post.
And at that elevation you do find ponds:
That’s me in the foreground with Dan and Carlos. And with ponds, you’ll find waterbirds, like these Andean Geese:
Andean Geese are found from Peru through central Chile and Argentina. They’re usually found over 10,000 feet.
We spent a few more days in the hills around Cochabamba finding more high altitude specialties. One of the key targets was this Hooded Mountain-toucan:
There are three other species of mountain-toucan. All the mountain toucans are found in Andean cloud forest. Hooded Mountain-toucan is essentially a Bolivian endemic…it just barely creeps into Peru.
On the other end of the size range is Moustached Flowerpiercer:
Flowerpiercers are small birds that have hooked biils that they use to poke holes in the base of flowers to get at the nectar. Moustached Flowerpiercer is found mainly on the east slope of the Andes in Peru, as well as in Bolivia.
Another small Andean bird is the Three-striped Hemispingus:
Hemispinguses are a kind of tanager. The Three-striped is found in Peru and Bolivia, in high-elevation scrub forest above the tree line. For the record spingus is means finch, so hemispingus means “half-finch”.
Another high-elevation species is the Huayco Tinamou:
It’s call sounds like “huayco”, although the indigenous name is “waypu” which is a much better representation of the call. Wikipedia describes them as being found in cereal fields, but this one was actually in a potato field. It was faaaar!
You see those two little red traffic cones at the base of the field? The tinamou was between those two cones!
There were plenty of flycatchers up in the mountain scrub. First up was Brown-backed Chat-tyrant:
Brown-backed Chat-tyrant is found in high altitude grassland from Venezuela to Bolivia. There was also Golden-browed Chat-tyrant:
This species is a little skulker that’s found in the Yungas cloud-forest of Peru and Bolivia. Next up is Rufous-bellied Bush-tyrant:
It’s another endemic to the Yungas of Peru and Bolivia.
There are also some fairly large hummingbirds. One of the prettiest is Great Sapphirewing:
Great Sapphirewing is the second largest hummingbird in the world (the largest is Giant Hummingbird, which we also saw in Bolivia). It’s found from Colombia to Bolivia.
We also saw Violet-throated Starfrontlet:
It’s found in shrubby forests in Peru and Bolivia.
Less ornate is this Line-fronted Canastero:
Canasteros are in the ovenbird family with spinetails. Line-fronted is found in the scrub between the timberline and puna grassland in Peru and Bolivia.
And even at high altitude there are gulls:
This is an Andean Gull. It breeds in the high Andean Altiplano from 3,000m to 5,300m.
Another water-bound bird in the Andes is this Andean Avocet:
It breeds above 3,500m in the Andes of Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile. That’s a Greater Yellowlegs – a migrant from North America – in the picture with it.
That wraps up Cochabamba, so now it was time to move on to La Paz. This was going to be tricky.
At this time La Paz Airport was still open, but we’d concluded that the road from Cochabamba to La Paz would not be passable. In fact, there had been confrontations with firecrackers and rubber bullets between the Morales supporters and the police on the road about 10 miles south of La Paz airport the day before we were supposed to fly. So Carlos would not be able to get to La Paz. Fortunately our ground agent was able to arrange another driver, Victor, who was based in La Paz. He met us at the airport, and took the back roads down into the city for an overnight stay.
La Paz is the highest capital city in the world at 11,700 ft (3,560m). The airport is even higher. It’s in the city of El Alto, at 13,600 ft (4,300m). It’s the highest elevation airport in the world – higher even than Lhasa, Tibet. In fact, jet fuel is a vapor at ambient temperature and the low air pressure of El Alto, so planes aren’t able to refuel there. They have to carry enough fuel to get to their next (lower) destination.
After a night in downtown La Paz, we were off towards La Cumbre pass:
This was the highest altitude I’ve ever been at on land – 4,700m or about 15,400 ft. It was cold and there wasn’t much oxygen. But there were birds.
Like our other high-altitude excursion, there were seedsnipes, in this case Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes:
They’re found throughout the Andes. This was a bird I really wanted to see because of a past miss. I was on a trip in Ecuador 15 years ago, and the guide didn’t want to look for the seedsnipes at a known location, because it was “too foggy”.
Another high elevation specialty is the Glacier Finch:
Glacier Finch is found in high altitude bogs, mainly in Bolivia and Peru. It used to be called White-winged Diuca-finch, but since it isn’t in the genus diuca (like the true Diuca Finch), the authorities renamed it. Oh by the way...it’s a tanager.
And if there’s a high altitude pond, there are ducks, like these Crested Ducks:
Look at that hot pink speculum! This is the Andean subspecies. There is a lowland subspecies that’s found in Argentina, Chile, and the Falklands.
There were also Yellow-billed Teal:
I’ve seen both Crested Ducks and Yellow-billed Teal at low altitude in Tierra del Fuego, but clearly they are adaptable.
After crossing the pass, we headed down to about 10,000 ft. (Yes. Down!) to the dry, Pongo Valley:
Our main target there was Scribble-tailed Canastero:
This little spinetail is found in a little tiny strip of elevation between 3,000 and 4,300 m (9,800 and 14,100 ft) with one population in Peru and Bolivia and another separate population in northern Argentina. The “scribble-tail” refers to zig-zag black markings on its tail.
Another goodie in the valley was d’Orbigny’s Chat-tyrant:
Alcide Charles Victor Marie Dessalines d'Orbigny was a French naturalist who explored South America and a contemporary (rival?) of Charles Darwin. d’Orbigny’s Chat-tyrant is found in the Andes from Peru to Argentina.
One of the unique mammals we found in the Pongo Valley was this Southern Viscacha:
Viscachas look like rabbits, but they’re actually related to Chinchillas. It’s actually convergent evolution.
Near the Pongo Valley we found this Black-hooded Sunbeam:
It’s a Bolivian endemic hummingbird and is usually very easily found near Cochabamba, although it requires a very specific type of bush for feeding. However, the best location for it near Cochabamba wasn’t accessible due to road construction. So Dan was very relieved that we finally saw this bird, even though we saw an immature not an adult. The adult is black with a turquoise back and a rufous tail. It’s a very beautiful bird. Here’s a pic from Cornell.
It was now time to brave the Road of Death (Camino de la Muerte) - the road shown in the lead picture of the diary. It’s a single lane dirt road that winds down the mountains from the high grasslands at 10,000 ft to the tropical mid-level forest at about 6,000 ft. It used to be the main road from La Paz to the Amazon basin used by all vehicles including heavy trucks. Here’s a clip from the BBC program Top Gear where they drive the road. However, this was in the days before it was replaced by a new paved bypass road which now gets all the traffic. These days the Camino de la Muerte is a tourist attraction only used by crazy mountain bikers looking for an adrenaline rush and the occasional hard-core birders, as shown in this sign:
And while we didn’t see the Cock-of-the-Rock shown in the sign, we saw a lot of goodies.
One of the specialties of the road is Scimitar-winged Piha:
Pihas are a kind of cotinga. Scimitar-winged Piha is almost exclusively found in Bolivia with a small population in Peru. But basically, most of the recent sitings are along the Bolivian Death Road.
Another kind of cotinga is this Barred Fruiteater:
Fruiteaters are mainly green and black, but the breast color/pattern is different from species to species. Some are red, some are yellow...this one is yellow-and-black. Barred Fruiteaters are found throughout the Andes from 2,250 to 3,300 meters (7,400 to 10,800 ft).
On the walk to the Piha site, we found this Masked Trogon:
Masked Trogon is found in humid highland forests in the northern Andes. This one is the submontanus subspecies, which is endemic to Bolivia.
An even more colorful bird is this Crimson-mantled Woodpecker:
It’s found throughout the Andes, from Venezuela to Bolivia.
Another wide-ranging bird is Blue-capped Tanager:
It’s more of a lower-elevation species and is found from Bolivia all the way through Venezuela as far as Trinidad!
A high elevation species is this Maroon-belted Chat-tyrant:
This is another skulky little flycatcher that hides in the brush. The Maroon-belted used to be part of a larger species, Slaty-backed Chat-tyrant, but the species was split into northern and southern species, with Maroon-belted as the southern one.
Another flycatcher we saw was Golden-crowned Flycatcher:
It’s found mainly in Peru and Bolivia with a small population in Northern Argentina. It used to include birds in the northern Andes, but several of the subspecies were moved into Golden-bellied Flycatcher which extends into Central America.
Yet another flycatcher is this Cinnamon Flycatcher:
This little cutie is another widespread Andean species, found in the subtropical zone from Venezuela to Argentina.
Now a brief interlude.
You can’t talk about this part of the Bolivian Andes without talking about coca:
It’s a major cash crop in Bolivia, although much of it is not refined as cocaine. In fact, it’s been used in Bolivia since the time of the Incas. Most people use it as a chewable stimulant or as a remedy for various minor illnesses. And if you want it, it’s easy to find:
Interestingly, coca farming led to one of the more stable periods in recent Bolivian history. As I commented above, Morales’ rise to power was supported by the indigenous population. Many of those people were highland coca farmers. With Morales in power, the demonization of coca encouraged by the US was highly reduced and US “aid” to the military was all but eliminated. This increased the income of the ordinary farmers and decreased the influence of the military. That led to stability. I’d call it The Law of Unintended Consequences, but it seems pretty intentional to me.
Now back to the birds.
A bird we didn’t expect to come out in the open was this Andean Solitaire:
Solitaires are thrushes that usually hang out in the tops of trees where they’re not easily seen. However, since the mountainsides are so steep, the tops of the trees below the road are at eye level!
Another eye-level goodie was this Striped Treehunter:
It’s another funariid (ovenbird). As you’d expect from the name, Striped Treehunter spends its time working the trees, especially bamboo, looking for insects. It’s found in the subtropical zone of the Andes from Venezuela to Bolivia.
And you can’t visit the tropics without seeing parakeets:
Green cheeked Parakeets are mainly found in Bolivia, but its range extends slightly into all the neighboring countries.
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At this point, we’d survived two days on the Road of Death – one going down and the other going back up – but we now had to deal with more Bolivian surprises. We’d been tracking some roadblocks between La Paz and Lake Titicaca online. Unfortunately, our hotel on the lake shore got in touch to let us know that they were closing: because of the roadblocks, nobody could get to the hotel. So once again, our ground agent went into action and got us rooms in La Paz.
Now we needed to figure out the birding. With the roadblocks, one of the key species, Berlepsch’s Canastero (a Bolivian endemic) was off the table. However, there was still part of Lake Titicaca at the very southern end that we could get to. So that became the new plan.
On the way to Titicaca, we passed through the Altiplano – the High Plains:
The Altiplano is high-elevation grassland at about 13,000 ft (4,000m). This is the land of pipits.
The first we saw was Puna Pipit:
Puna Pipit is found in the high altitude grasslands (and dirt roads) of Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina. It used to be included in Short-billed Pipit but was split out in 2022, in part because of differences in preferred elevation. Short-billed favors lower elevation, and Puna favors high elevation.
Another pipit is Correndera Pipit:
Correndera Pipit is more widespread than Puna Pipit. It’s mostly found throughout Argentina all the way to Tierra del Fuego, but there are smaller populations in Peru and Bolivia.
Eventually we did make it to Lake Titicaca:
Those mountains in the distance are in Peru. The border runs through the middle of the lake. And in the picture, you can see why we came to this location: Flamingos! In fact we had three species of flamingo at this one location.
We saw Chilean Flamingo:
James’ Flamingo:
and Andean Flamingo:
Chilean Flamingo is found through much of southern South America. Andean and James’ Flamingos are only found in the high elevations of the Andes.
So how does one tell the three species apart? It’s actually pretty easy.
- Chilean Flamingo has a long pink and black bill. It has yellowish legs with bright red knees and feet.
- James’ Flamingo has a short bright yellow bill with a small black tip. Its legs are a uniform pink color.
- Andean Flamingo has a long pale yellow and black bill. It’s legs and feet are yellow. Most notable is the large black triangle on its closed wings.
You can clearly see the differences in the three pictures. And an important fact about Andean Flamingo: It was my 6,000th species! Whoo hoo!
As noted earlier, up at these altitudes there are still waterbirds. A common one is Andean Lapwing:
Lapwings are a kind of large plover. Andean Lapwing is found along high elevation lakes and bogs. Its counterpart, the Southern Lapwing is a low elevation bird.
We also saw large flocks of Puna Ibis:
Puna Ibis is found in marshes and lakes in the central Andes. It’s pretty widespread. And Wikipedia notes that it’s actually been domesticated for meat and eggs by the Uru people who live on reed islands in Lake Titicaca. Fascinating!
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So that about wraps up my trip to Bolivia. I had actually planned to spend a couple extra days in La Paz doing some sightseeing, but given the risk that the civil unrest could still close the airport, I decided to get the hell outta Dodge while the airport was still open. So I cut the trip short and came home a couple days early.
And a quick post-trip post script…a week or so after I got home, I decided to check the website of the Bolivian Transportation Authority to see if the roadblocks around Lake Titicaca were still there. They were gone, but a whole new set of roadblocks had been created, effectively blockading the entire city of Cochabamba. If we had been a few weeks later, all of our day-trips from Cochabamba would have been impossible. The trip would have been a total disaster.
Timing is everything!
So what’s happening in your neighborhood these days?